No, really! According to many Hungarian spiritualists, and apparently even the Dali Lama, the woods surrounding the Platán Panzió in the Pilis hills northwest of Budapest may be the actual “center of the universe.”
Whether Dobogókő really is the spirit world’s ground zero is not really something a food and wine website should get involved in speculating about. But we will say that the food at the Platán is pretty darn good, judging from the monster grill platter for two (Ft 3,650/€14.70) and the Liba-lakoma (an all-goose plate featuring leg, breast, liver and some delicious cracklings, Ft 2,850) that three of us shared. Not to mention the fact that, when it started to rain, most of the locals eating at the place got out their umbrellas and held their ground like it was the most important place on Earth.
