It is a shame that the area around the Tabán park at the foot of Castle Hill is so neglected, because it is certainly chock full of history, particularly when it comes to eating and drinking out. The green area was once filled with vineyards and the streets beneath the castle were bustling with taverns, restaurants and wine cellars until the 1930s. The Three Monkeys or Három Majom, in the same building as the Aranyszarvas Vendéglő tourist trap, likes to think that it harks back to those old days, and in many ways, it does. For a start, the name is taken from the old tavern that originally occupied the cosy cellar space, and the emphasis is on old-fashioned enjoyment ahead of modern exclusivity. The downside is that it is often completely empty, but it certainly shouldn't be. Although there is room for improvement, speaking evil of the Three Monkeys does not come easy.

There can be no doubt that the cellar is fun and atmospheric - a red brick room comfortably seating 40 people in attractive but slightly uncomfortable-looking wrought iron chairs, as well as some more accomodating wooden benches. The unimposing but attractive iron décor and flatteringly dim lighting are complemented by pleasant lounge music that sets the tone nicely. A special mention must go to the Three Monkeys themselves, who perch on the mantlepiece and are wise - the front door is labeled Három Bölcs Majom - enough to keep their ears, mouths and eyes firmly open.

The menu (which can be downloaded in .pdf format here) makes all the right noises, too. A whole page of gulyások, and paprikások is followed by a good selection of starters, such as the beef tartar (Ft 1,890) and the thinly sliced goose with goat's cheese (Ft 1,690), pictured. Not pictured was the toast, which was in ample supply but initially arrived cold - and there is nothing less appetizing than cold toast. To make up for it, both starters provided tasty variations on their respective themes - the steak was rich in tomato and the fatty goose was supple and drenched in cool olive oil. In addition, both could easily be shared among several people.

The main courses were equally promising, but proved more of a mixed bag. The oven-baked goose drumstick with champagne cabbage and garlic potatoes (Ft 2,590) was as good as it sounds, with the red cabbage a real winner.

The "Gipsy" Steak was no ordinary cigánypecsenye (Ft 2,390) either, smothered as it was with "devil's sauce" in addition to the usual overload of garlic. This is a definite plus point; the standard slice of pork served with fries is a simple and bland restaurant dish that instantly signals a lack of culinary ambition.

The Mallard breast in Villány wine sauce (Ft 2,890) was certainly a braver choice, and it also proved to be something of a risk. As duck goes, Mallard is a fairly dry bird, and the wine sauce and potato puffs did little to help that. If you like your duck crispy and juicy, go for the, er, goose.

The only genuine disappointment was also the least Hungarian (and joint most expensive at Ft 2,890) of our selection. Elements of the Balkan mixed grill were grilled so dry they were impossible to cut, which suggests that the chef is not used to cooking for a group as large as four.

Considering what you get for the same number of forints elsewhere, the Three Monkeys offer reasonable value, particularly if you are looking for the traditional high-quality, genuine Hungarian fare that is so mysteriously hard to find in Budapest - csülök (pork knuckle) for two is also on the menu, for example.

But that's until you take the wine list into account, which is a serious catch - this is billed as a wine cellar after all... The admittedly excellent Takler Kadarka or Polgár Rubin Cuvée at Ft 6,290 and Ft 5,690 was at the bottom end of the mid range of wines. For a bottle that retails at Ft 2,000, that's a little steep, especially if there is not much to recommend at lower prices. We didn't ask about table wines, perhaps this was our mistake.

Finally, if you have never heard of the Három Majom, evil or otherwise, there is nothing to be ashamed of. It opened as long ago as March 2006 but is so well tucked away at the foot of the Castle District and so poorly promoted that only sharp-eyed passers-by are ever likely to stumble across it. The restaurant and wine cellar tagline doesn't help much either, especially when you stumble down the stairs expecting a high-class café or gastropub and find yourself in an empty restaurant (but not one lacking in character). Several potential patrons did exactly that, and promptly turned back. This is a shame, because what the Three Monkeys is really trying to offer is a premium wining and dining experience in a relaxed, informal atmosphere. The friendly staff and pleasant surroundings certainly achieve the latter, the former demands further scrutiny - but is certainly deserving of another visit.