It seems that the anonymous commenter on our earlier post about Costes turned out to be correct in claiming that Hungary’s first Michelin-starred restaurant was about to lose its head chef for the second time in less than six months. Last week the blog Otthon Édes had a post confirming the departure of Nicolas Delgado – who only took over from Miguel Vieira a few months back – and confirming that Vieira would be coming back to take over the job of head chef. Since the site seems to have been the first with the news of the Michelin coup, we’ll assume they have this correct too.
The post says that co-owner Károly Gerendai has inked a deal that will have the Portuguese Vieira returning sometime this summer and relieving the Argentine Delgado. Vieira apparently visited Budapest recently, and already has a new menu planned. As everyone seems to agree that it was Vieira who was responsible for the Michelin star, his return takes much of the sting out of Delgado’s sudden exit – at least for Costes. Not so for Hungary as a whole.
Leaving aside the issue of what is behind the odd game of musical chefs, the whole thing can’t help but raise the question of whether Gerendai & Co. even bothered to look for a replacement here in Hungary. Given what I’ve heard about the pay – the figure €8,000 a month has been bandied about – and that Michelin star, Costes clearly would be able to have their pick of the cream of Hungarian chefs.
I’ve had a few brief chats with people in the business about the question. None said they thought there is a local szakács with the chops to keep Costes from losing its star. Since I don’t spend much time worrying about who Michelin gives its stars to, I’m not really the guy to ask. But what I do know is that most other folks here who care about matters culinary seem to care. And this means the lack of home-grown candidates can’t help but be a pretty big plate of truffled egg on the face of the Hungarian restaurant scene. Even worse is the possibility that the owners thought the restaurant would be “devalued” if the top toque ended up on the head of a Hungarian.
Since Vieira’s return is apparently a done deal – and he is essentially returning to “reclaim” his star – I suppose there is no point in drawing up a list of local chefs whom I think worthy of the challenge. But as Costes seems to have trouble keeping these exotic foreign chefs in their kitchen, it would certainly be in their interest to do so. Hungary’s, too.
Just noticed that the Top 33 list hadn’t been updated in over 2 years. What gives?
This is Hungary-land man, things take their good time
)
And whats the scandal Erik?! Dont see and scandal at all…
And, whats wrong with having foreigner Chefs?! Paris, London, New Yok, Tokio, all the capitals all over the world have foreigner “world class” chefs, why Budapest should be different?!
What concerns to me i just have to say a BIG welcome back Miguel
@Peter: I have nothing whatsoever against foreign
chefs – Hungary needs more of them! And I certainly
wouldn’t mind in this case if Costes were a French,
Italian or Japanese restaurant. But it isn’t – it’s
an “international” restaurant. So it’s natural to
ask the question of why it seems no local chef is up
to the job. And by “scandal” I simply meant that
people are treating the chef-swapping itself as
something notable, without asking the above
question.
@Vladimir: Good question re the Top 33, for which
you’ll soon get an answer. But one answer was sort
of provided by John: Things don’t change so fast in
Budapest…
Zsolt Litauszky might be able to do it, but he is working as a private chef for another billionaire. Shame!
food at costes is simply crap – service worst so michelin failed and got fucked up by another crap boy pretending to be the new guru on budapest food field . what a shame on us! fake faku faki
@wolf: I’m tempted to call BS on your comment. When
did you eat there? And what did you have?
The top 33 list hasn’t been updated for nearly two and a half
years- longer than the life span of a lot of restaurants. This has
got to be the result of extreme laziness, complacency or corruption
…HELLO, ANY ONE THERE!!!!
or the lack of free meals…
There is no scandal at all.
Delgado is the first ever Argentinian who earned Michelin Star.
His reputation back home is now astronomical. He was offered
many top jobs with top salaries. It’s a dream come true for him…
Viera worked hard for this star, he burned out,and feeled he has
to move on. Just befor his big moment.
Being back home for a while, he became fit again. It was the
right choice taking back his kitchen where he invested two of his
years to achieve what he at the end lended to Delgado.
At the moment no hungarian chefs living in Huingary are at
michelin star level. 3-4 years of training lacks even the bests to
achieve it.
his reputation is sooooooooo huge in Argentina that if you type is name on the argentinian google you have a dozen of results…..
the guy must be the Lionel Messi of the argentinian cooking…
This is late but as the thread is still here I will add my two filler.
Fine if the head is a foreigner. But is the policy of the restaurant to bring up some local talent? They could accomplish this by putting some young and talented Hungarians in training and assistant positions. Nothing like working as a prep chef for a year or two to begin to understand how they prepare the different pieces that get put together by the master.
Certainly Georges Lang and Louis Szathmary were not the last great Hungarian Chefs. There must be talent worth developing.
What is needed is development of a “new” Hungarian cuisine that uses old ingredients but fuses them with healthier forms of preparation.
Pork fat and goose fat may provide flavors from heaven, but there are other ways to achieve the same results without clogging our arteries.
Erik, any thoughts on the 2011 Gault Millau guide?!