As the weather gets cold, nothing warms the folks at the Four Tigers Chinese Market like shiu-jiao, or boiled dumplings. Boiled dumplings are the comfort food of North China, and a specialty of Beijing in particular. Most of the Chinese who live in Hungary come from Beijing and the North/Central parts of China, where wheat is as important as rice, and is greedily wolfed down in the form of noodles and various dumplings, known generically as Jiaozi.

The "Dumpling Lady" is located in the back of the Chinese market. (Enter by the middle gate - located at the #28 tram stop KÅ?BÃ?NYAI ÚT 21 - and walk directly back to the row of food shacks.) Set on the far left, just next to the Asian vegetable seller's stand, the Dumpling Lady is usually rather busy shoveling out shiu-jiao dumplings to the hungry masses. She does great noodle soup as well, as well as Szechuan noodles and - during the summer - cold noodle dishes. Noodles and dumplings are listed on the wall menu in Chinese only - us lo-wai have to ask for them, which is fine. Just yell "shoo dzao!" (Drop your tone on the second syllable... you'll have the crowd in stitches.) Even on a busy day the Dumpling Lady is all smiles.

The dumplings, filled with pork and chopped scallions, are made fresh to order, so expect to wait five minutes behind a crowd of chattering Beijing "expats" (listen for the peculiarly strong "r" sounds in the accent…. Beijing!) For Ft 600 you get twenty or so hot, fresh dumplings in a plastic bowl. Broth is poured on them, and if you wish, hot sauce.

Communicating in Hungarian with strong Chinese accents takes creativity, so just nod your head to the question "csipös? Nem csipös?" Chinese black malt vinegar is another condiment that goes with shiu-jiao… place a dumpling in your spoon with some broth, drizzle some vinegar on top… and let a hundred flowers blossom in your stomach. Also good for take out…

The dumplings - the most sought-after lunch in the market - often sell out by 1:00 pm. As we previously mentioned, don't go expecting luxury atmosphere (in fact, don't expect the slightest acknowledgment of basic sanitation) and don't try to take photos. The market folks don't mind, but the Hungarian private security beasts may beat you into a pulp - assuming they are willing to tear themselves away from their own bowls of dumplings.

[Up Next: Saying "Yes" to Pho]