For a city with so many Hungarians originating from Erdély (Transylvania) there are precious few restaurants in Budapest specializing in the hearty fare from that region. And if you have been to Transylvania, you know just how good the cuisine is, and how hospitable the local population can be to visitors. One of my favorite meals of all time was a simple bowl of home-made puliszka (a cornmeal porridge much like polenta) with milk we had just squeezed from the barnyard cow, served to us by a family that had literally invited us in from the street. Not long ago, my colleague had a fairly underwhelming experience at another local Transylvanian eatery, so I was very pleased to happen upon the Székelykapu Étterem (follow link for contact details and user feedback), with its comfortable room, and super menu filled with Transylvanian favorites.
It took me a while to actually try out Székelykapu, because it replaced one of my favorite Budapest restaurants, the Kis Sün (small hedgehog), which served Hungarian food, but also had Russian menu, offering cheap pelmini, borscht, and sturgeon dishes. But I was very happy to have gotten over that grudge when I descended into the cellar space, decked out to look like a country inn in Székelyföld. (“Székelyföld” means the “land of the Székely,” the Székely/Szeklers being a Hungarian-speaking ethnic group that lives mostly in this part of historic Hungary in eastern Transylvania.) The first thing I spotted was a bright red can of Ciuc beer, one of Romania’s more popular brands. If they cared enough to import Ciuc, I was sure we were in for only good things. Unfortunately, I was only partially right.
Eating Transylvanian is like eating in the kitchen of a farmer. All the ingredients could have been grown or raised within a stone’s throw of the house. The menu at Székelykapu is filled with such dishes. The starter, Fuszulykás Zakuszta (Ft 850, €3.30), a cream of bean, red pepper, potato, and onion served with crusty peasant bread went down well with a Ciuc and a blueberry házi pálinka. Later, a spicy meat stew, Erdélyi Tokány (Ft 1,850) arrived on a bed of warm puliszka.
Miccs/Mititei (Ft 1,350) the larger Romanian version of csevapcsicsi, were pungent very gamey: there could be no mistaking this for anything but flesh from a variety of domesticated beasts ground and grilled. The roasted red-pepper side was fresh and uniquely tangy. We are talking about a really filling meal here, very well prepared, and in a fun, kitchy atmosphere (in addition to the knick-knacky decorations, there was a mustached keyboardist, playing old Hungarian pop favorites).
So what could possibly have gone wrong? It breaks my heart to report that, after so much going right, they went for the short-sighted scam of adding the service onto the bill (which had no actual items written on it, just numerals). The waitress even read off what we ordered, and then the total. I had to call her back to ask if the service was included, only to have her nod glumly. There could be no mistaking this for anything but a cheat, because nowhere was the inclusion of the tip indicated on the bill in any language, nor was the policy stated in Hungarian or English on the menu. It is a small tragedy for me when this kind of thing happens, because I know I won’t be returning, no matter how good the food. Unless you can prove me wrong (and I hope you do) I remain convinced the only place to get Erdély food along with hospitality, is in Erdély.
I think the only sensible solution would be to do the same in Hungary as all other western european countries, include the service in the prices one way or another (either italian way of having “coperto”) or like in most western countries, simply as automatic calculation (in most countries that is by law actually). That would then be clear to everyone.
Aww man, that sucks. I love the Szekelykapu. Don’t tell me I have to boycott it now!
Yes, it would be nice if a uniform policy could be implemented across the board, but, obviously, we are dealing with independent businesses with varying levels of ethics. I have gotten used to the inclusion of the 10 percent tip, if is stated, at the minimum, on the bill. But to try to slip it under the radar (in hopes of getting double the tip) is fairly slimy. Really a shame in this case, and I suspect directed at foreigners, as the room was filled with local diners as well.
“Fuszulykás Zakuszta” would be an excellent name for a rock band…
@ Sean: no – don’t boycott at all – for all we know this is an isolated incident. Do you go there with Hungarians? Best to let others give their feedback and take it from there. If you do go again, please keep an eye on the check and post the results.
It is not an isolated incident, many restaurants are doing the same and usually there is something written in the bottom of the bill as “extra” or “service”, which is not bad if it is CLEARLY written on the menu as well…
By the way, many waiters actually are getting double tip.
My suggestion is to check well the bill anytime, every where.
Should be nice to know what to do when we are not satisfied of the service and it is already charged in the bill…
You failed to mention the Great Hungary map carved out from wood on its prominent place.
Sure it warms the heart of every decent Hungarian in this country.
@Mokus: yes, I go there with Hungarians, or half-Hungarians at any rate, but this should be irrelevant, no? Because if they’re in the business of only ripping off non-hungos, however gently, that’s somehow even worse.
But yes, I’ll go again, and let you know what goes down with the bill. Hopefully it’s just an isolated incident.
It’s not a problem with the ungarian restaurants, I had this problem in an “italian” restaurant. On my bill there was an “extra” of exactly the 10 percent of the total. Another not really nice thing was that I ordered only one pizza and with this “pizza” (with raw aubergines on top!) they take me bread and grissini without asking, of course. Usually with the pizza is not necessary to have the bread, or probably yes when you have to pay for every each piece! strange system!
No problem. I don’t like to discuss. Just to cancel the name of the restaurant, for ever!!!
Similar story with me, not going away either:
http://tinyurl.com/77mu33
Becoming more common in Budapest. The most disconcerting
thing really is in its variations. Put Service Charge 10% on the
menu and everything is clear!
I just went to this restaurant last weekend and had the same experience. The waitress stood in front of our table with a little piece of paper and told us everything we ordered with the prices. Then she handed me the bill, which only had numbers on it, so it was completely useless. I asked if service was included and she reluctantly said yes. I was there with my hungarian girlfriend and we spoke hungarian the whole time so I’m sure this is their common practice with everyone. If she just would have mentioned that service was included, it wouldn’t have been so bad.
I fail to see the rationale behind the conclusion of this review for several reasons.
1. Chances are the same exact thing would happen to the client in a large number of establishments all over Europe.
2. Until the issue of accounting for the gratuity does not get settled in Europe, this same exact circumstance will keep on repeating itself all over.
3. The Golden Rule is: Caveat Emptor, if one doesn’t watch out for one’s money, who should?
My solution for the problem mentioned is quite simple.
At my first visit to an unfamiliar restaurant in Europe, I’ll always let them them know in advance that I expect a net bill exclusive of gratuities.
Never had a bad experience since, what’s more I have noticed improvement in service most times.
Regarding Székelykapu, I ate there three times so far and I shall most definitely return again.
Never had the smallest problem there ever and each time my expectations were matched.
The food is excellent and this comes from a Native who knows what Transylvanian cooking is about, they have some real good wines and some fair wines at reasonable prices, their pálinka was a pleasant surprise in the middle of Budapest and the lucky few can taste some very special stuff also, IF offered. If it is not, do not bother to ask.
We went to Székelykapu yesterday with a group of 16, each of us ordering different items. The couple running the place went out of their way to get everything right. The food was great, the service friendly, when they brought over more portions of their tasty pancakes than we ordered they threw them in for free. All in all the bill was only 77.000 for the entire deal, including 3 bottles of very decent Fekete Leányka/Feteasca alba. I’ll be back!
This review is now very far off base. I ate there just the other night,
expecting to be ripped off. But I was very pleased to see that there
is signage in several prominent places—the menu, and the box that
holds the bill—indicating that service charge is NOT included. A
careful check of the receipt against the menu confirmed this. The
service was excellent, the wine was wonderful, and the food is
absolutely not to be missed.
Don, it might be helpful to look at the dates of posts above your own. Good to hear they dropped the stealth service tax.