Readers of these pages will know that the Budapest dining scene has been dominated by style over substance in recent years, and a tendency to cater to a market that doesn't exist. However, with the re-emergence of the new-look Déryné Bisztró and now Symbol, that looks about to change. The mega "gastronomy center" recently opened in Óbuda follows a similar approach to Mrs. Déry; create a space that is enjoyable even when empty and keep prices low, or at least reasonable. This formula has struck an instant cord with Buda residents, our moles say the lunchtime crowd flocks here from miles around.

The secret of Symbol's success (the pics enclosed were taken after everyone had left on Sunday evening) is an air of organic sophistication that combines the quirks and homeliness of the local pub or café with the polish and style of a fancy bar/restaurant. As a case in point, the fixtures are not only objects of beauty, but also double up as subtle talking points without being gimmicky, like the cutlery themed lights and door handles pictured above.

Make no mistake, "organic" doesn't mean Symbol was put together on the cheap, just that it isn't forced or stuffy. We have heard from various sources that the owners plowed a staggering Ft 1 billion (€4 million) into the venue - these are just the entrances to the bathrooms:

But, hey, not everyone is impressed with high design, there's food and drink, sports and culture at Symbol, too. The food we sampled at the Italian Fusion Restaurant was more than satisfactory and less than expensive, weighing in at Ft 15,000 (€60) for a party of four, with soups but minus wine. And they even have pizza for the big kids! Oh, and the excellent dessert selection was complementary after a mix-up with someone else's order.

Considering the lavish surroundings and live music (first from a pianist, then from the Jamie Winchester gig beamed up from the concert venue in the cellar), this represents value even recession-hit Hungos won't complain too much about.

Aside from the food, which on our first visit was something of a sideshow, a tour of the other facilities revealed that Symbol offers more than enough to pack a crowd any night of the week and in any weather. The stylish atrium roof will open up in summer, the Puskas Pancho sports bar is fully equipped to host the big game and the swanky bar-café no doubt attracts the trendy weekend crowd. A 200-year old wine cellar will complete the picture later this year.

Although Symbol is several sizes bigger and arguably more stylish than Déryné, both venues share that certain something that sets them apart from the likes of White Heaven, MO and all the Tom-George clones and traps set for the snob elite and unsuspecting foreigner. We'll be back.