Dec 12 '08

Luxury, Lost

Perennial Chew "Top 33" member Páva to close in January

old-pava.jpg

Usually I like to end the week here with something nice for readers to chew over. But unfortunately today is not one of those days, as I have the distinct displeasure of reporting that longtime Chew "Top 33" member Páva (click link for previous related stories) will be shutting down as a full-service restaurant as of the first week of January.

As for what led the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest to decide to convert the "peacock" from a restaurant to a meeting and banqueting facility, the answer is probably pretty obvious. They simply couldn't justify running two high-end eateries (the Gresham Kávéház on the other side of the hotel is only a few notches below Páva in the luxury dining leagues) in an economic environment like the one we are currently going through. But even given this it's a crushing blow, in part because many obviously inferior premium-class restaurants remain open in town.

If there is any silver lining, it is that the space will now be available for large organized affairs, and (from what people at the Gresham say) the change will lead to the Kávéház becoming even better than it currently is.

Meanwhile, for the time being Páva remains open, and I encourage anyone who can to go book yourself a table and toast the people - especially long-time "godfather" Andrea Colla - who poured so much hard work and love into this worthy endeavor.

On the other hand, something this fine is unlikely to disappear forever, and I fully expect the big room with the unforgettable views of the Chain Bridge to be opened again to regular diners once the market for this kind of hospitality turns around. When it does rise from the ashes, they might even rename it the főnix.

3 Comments

Erik:

It is clearly a sign of the economic times, but even more so I believe this is a message about Budapest, and how sophisticated (expensive dining is not a winning proposition in this city. There are frankly too few locals with both interest and the pocket book to make high end fine dining a good business proposition. In part this is because the business community is moribund, and as such there is little "business dining", and in part this is because Hungarians do not sufficiently appreciate quality food and dining experiences. My wife and i have enjoyed Pava a number of times, and will miss one ofthe few really quality restaurants in the city.

Wow, another overpriced place most people can't afford closes its doors. I'll be playing the world's smallest violin in Páva's memory...

Well, one reason to care is that, unlike at many high-end places in town, the people at this place really did seem to care what they were doing - at least the 'old guard' from a few years back... service was always amazing.

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