Last Saturday the stately Academy of Sciences building on Pest's Roosevelt tér played host to the Egri Borok Gálája ("Eger Wine Gala"), a now-annual event during which many top Eger winemakers show their wares to the trade in the capital. I won't bore you with a long list of the wines I tasted - and the "verbal" tasting notes I got from people who slurped down some wines I didn't - but just mention a few highlights.

Among these were an amazing Cabernet Sauvignon rosé from way back in 2001 made by Imre Kaló, whose booth seemed to be among the most popular throughout the day. Also quite fine was a Cabernet Franc from Bolyki, as well as the unusual "Metha Thema," a dry late harvest Hárslevelű. There were also some tasty Pinot Noirs, and even a decent Syrah or two. In other words, exciting wines of all kinds, except for the region's signature Bikavér ("Bull's Blood").

This might not have been unusual a few years back, when high-end Egri winemakers were still trying to distance themselves from the embarrassing recent history of Bikavér. But it seems a little strange now that so many winemakers are putting out luxury versions of the stuff - some closer to Ft 10,000 than Ft 5,000 - in the process creating a new appellation, "Egri Bikavér Superior." Maybe it's time for them to add "Egri Bikavér Super Superior," or at least to make sure some the region's other wines are not so damn good.