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A Critical Look at the First Critical Hungarian-Language Restaurant Guide

The recently-published Étterem és bor kalauz gets kudos for being honest, but it is too soulless, says Carolyn Bánfalvi

etterem es bor kalauzWe know, we know. We’re late again bringing you our take on an important development in the Hungarian restaurant scene. The Étterem és bor kalauz (Restaurant and Wine Guide), published by Alexandra press and written by Tamás Molnár B. and a group of unidentified chefs and foreign culinary writers, has already been on bookstore shelves for several months, stirring things up within the kitchens of Budapest, with those who write about food and wine here, and with those who like to spend their increasingly dwindling paychecks on dining and drinking out. But we have a perfect excuse for being late: the task of reviewing the guide was mine, and I was winding down from finishing my own grand opus on local culinary matters. (The Food and Wine Lover’s Guide to Hungary, which has a much different focus, and was just released in English in Hungary by Park kiadó.) So here’s my take on the controversial kalauz.

Molnár B. is the author of the sophisticated and unforgiving gastroblog A bűvös szakács, (“The Magic Chef”), which was launched in cooperation with Index.hu in the fall of 2007, as well as a long-time food writer and reviewer for the conservative daily Magyar Nemzet. When the guide was released, Index.hu said that, being filled straight-to-the-point sentences (as well as lots of grammatical errors) it was nothing like what has been previously published in Hungarian before.

That is certainly true, because there has never been another independently-written restaurant guide to Hungary written in Hungarian before. Hungary is littered with publications in numerous languages that exist just to rake in the advertising cash (and freebies), with so-called “reviews” that are usually terribly written and uninformative our out-and-out unmarked advertisements. So this one – in which the authors claim to have arrived unannounced and did not ask for any freebies – is, at least, a necessary first step. (Note: at Chew.hu we pay for our meals, unless we explicitly state otherwise.)

The kalauz has its merits, and its weaknesses. It is certainly admirable in its intent, and it is about time that a serious and untainted look has been given to the country’s restaurant situation. The guide’s stated principles are anonymity, independence and objectivity. The forward explains that the restaurant testers were anonymous and undercover, and that they paid for their meals (which were financed by the book’s sponsors, who have no interests in the restaurant business). Furthermore, the testers were only told about the places where they would eat shortly before their visit, when they also learned who their dining partners would be. It’s not clear if the reviews and ratings were based on single or multiple visits. Every single restaurant was judged by the same criteria, according to the kalauz, and testers were intent to be as objective as possible, judging exclusively on the quality.

According to the kalauz, the testers considered seven factors when rating the restaurants: raw materials (quality, freshness and seasonality); execution (whether the dishes were prepared the right way and preserved the flavors); the harmony of the dishes (whether the proportions and temperature were correct); the character of the restaurant; its consistency and reliability; its price and value; and whether the service and wine list matched the standards of the kitchen. The kalauz takes its lead from both the Gault Millau and the Michelin Guides, which are both known for their strict rating systems (Gault Millau uses a 20-point scale with one to four toques awarded and Michelin uses the famous three star system). According to the kalauz, 15 of its points would equal one Michelin star and 13-14 would be the equivalent of one Gault Millau toque.

In the kalauz, the best restaurant managed to earn merely one toque, and Michelin stars seem to be far away. Based on the guide, the situation is disastrous, as it has to point out when a restaurant uses fresh spices, and the fact alone that a place does not use frozen ingredients helps it stand out from the crowd. While the Gault Millau includes only those restaurants which earned at least 10 of the possible 20 points, the Étterem és bor kalauz lists not only those under eight points, but even places which are obviously not going to please diners looking for top-quality dining.

So which restaurants rate in the kalauz? The 12 best Hungarian restaurants and their points are:

1. Csalogány 26 (13.5)
2. Alabárdos (12.75)
3. Susogó Étterem (12.5)
4. Bock Bistro (12.25)
5. Lou-Lou Restaurant (12.25)
6. Páva Étterem (12)
7. Ráspi Étterem (12)
8. Le Bourbon (12)
9. Klassz (12)
10. Fuji Japán Étterem (12)
11. Arany Kaviár Restaurant (11.75)
12. Onyx Restaurant (11.75)

Of the 10 Budapest restaurants in top 12, seven are also among our own “Top 33.” A few other tops: Fausto’s, Páva and Lou Lou were singled out for best service and Csalogány 26, Klassz and Gold Bistro (inside district 11’s Gold fitness center) were mentioned for best value.

In all, the kalauz rates 150 restaurants and includes short write-ups about what the testers ate, the atmosphere, the kitchen, the service and the wine list. It also includes contact information for a total of 1,400 restaurants. But beyond the numbers, the guide really fails to give readers an idea of what it is actually like to eat at those restaurants. Descriptions are terse, with things like service or dishes often being described as simply korrekt or kompetens. These cold descriptions don’t really cut it for many of those who take restaurants seriously, and really want to be able to pick a restaurant based on its atmosphere, its history, and yes, its food. There’s way more about the dining experience at any given restaurant than can be conveyed in a simple number. After the kalauz was released one Hungarian foodie friend, who knows the Budapest restaurant scene as well as anyone, ranted that it portrayed eating-out and cooking as something scientific and soul-less. Another said that after reading the descriptions of food and service in the reviews, the kalauz made him want to stay home and cook, and not venture out into the seemingly terrible world of Hungarian restaurants, which the book describes.

It is an illusion that Hungarian cuisine is world famous, said Molnár B. and Dóra Bittera, another of the authors, to InfoRádió after the book was released. “We all like to think that Hungarian cuisine is world famous, and many tourists visit our country because of it. This myth is a capital mistake,” said Molnár B. He said there are several reasons for Hungary lagging behind. The first warning signs appeared in the 19th century, which continued with the Treaty of Trianon. After 1920, Hungarian cuisine became colorless and flat. “Different variations of a few Alföld specialties started spreading like cancerous cells,” as he put it. “Of course, we are talking about restaurant cuisine,” Bittera added. She also said that restaurants have become similar to mass kitchens, as their task for a long time was to help working comradettes save time by not having to cook at home. Molnár B. said “gastronomy was replaced by mass canteens, the Ibusz group and the gulyás party.” Both Molnár B. and Bittera, by the way, are founding members of the Hungarian Gastronomy Association (MGE) and two of many signatories of an open letter written last year to save Hungarian cuisine.

So Molnár B. and the rest of the book’s contributor’s would obviously like to see Hungarian cuisine and restaurants succeed, and keep pace with the rest of the world. But from paging through the kalauz a newcomer to Budapest might go away with the idea that its hard to get a good meal in the city, which is not the case. The intention behind the kalauz, I believe, is to make diners aware that while we may enjoy eating our gulyás at our simple restaurants, the chefs here are by no means creating high-end gastronomy. There are more exciting things happening outside of Hungary that we should be aware of. So, while it serves that purpose, it will not appeal to everyone. While some of Budapest has become obsessed with Budapest’s lack of a Michelin starred restaurant, the majority of eaters could probably care less, and I suspect that this guide won’t really do much for them.

Though the bulk of the book is devoted to restaurants, as its name implies, it also includes a section on wine. Here, too, the news seems glum for Hungary. “Winemaking is the area of Hungarian gastronomy that is in the best condition, but still not in good condition,” the authors say. The editors chose “the most exciting and creative” Hungarian wineries – some big and some small – and described and rated both the wineries and their best wines (with two to five stars).

Although the guide is in Hungarian, expats with a decent grasp of the language should be able to understand the reviews and find them useful, at least as starting points or sources of basic contact and pricing information (although watch for mistakes; the second most highly rated restaurant is listed as being in the fourth district, rather than the first). In conclusion, Index.hu writes the guide is “maybe the biggest event which took place in Hungarian gastronomy since the system change.” It presents Hungarian restaurants from a whole new viewpoint, and introduces a new voice, language and attitude. If it is published every year, it can change Hungarian culinary life for the better. On a positive note, Index.hu dropped an intriguing piece of half information: Molnár B.’s team found a recently-opened restaurant which at first sight seemed to be worth not one, but two Michelin stars.

  1. bede says:

    The intriguing piece of half information mentioned in the last sentence concerns Costes. It opened only after this book was finished, but the reviewers who went there gave it 17,5 points, which is 2 Michelin stars according to their maths. Apparently.

  2. cheflaszlo says:

    love the article. Hungary is one of the best places on this sick earth. Safe, clean, friendly, tasty, girls are absolutely gorges (and also tasty). /respect to you chew

  3. Péter says:

    Another newcomer to the Budapest dining scene that opened too recently to appear in the guide is Tigris. I’m convinced it’ll be highly rated in the next years edition(if the publisher manage at all to launch a new edition).It might make it to the top 12 if they can maintain the high quality!

  4. michael says:

    have anyone been to the new costes yet?! is it really as good as it seems?! thank you

  5. Bob says:

    the guide is a cheap shoot, let’s call it the Vulgarization of the Personal Molnár B Tamás. Really, I don’t mean to pick on MBT..for one thing, it was way to easy.

  6. Cheflaszlo says:

    It’s about -we call it “Bőgős”, as a form of pollution, as a kind of sludge that runs through hungarian culture today.
    The practice of cross-promotion devalues everything else Tamás Molnár b. (Bőgős) does. In a world where journalism had a lot more self-respect, there was simply no place for someone like him. Once upon a time in Hungary, it would have been impossible for someone like him to become president of an association, even if is fake and greedy.
    There is almost nothing to respect about Tamás Molnár b. and his wife Bittera Dóra. They will steal, and lie anytime to maintain media power.

    —————-
    Restaurant and Wine Guide Published by Alexandra press and written by Tamás Molnár B. and a group of unidentified chefs and foreign culinary writers. Unidentified chefs would be Viktor Segal, János Cseh, Christian Meyer…..we still counting.

  7. Anonymous says:

    true, very true. everybody knows that Mr. Molnar B apart from beeing always drunk is a… is a… well, a… i rather not to say it here…
    unfortunately in this country hes not the only one who gets away with it but what can we do?! maybe ignore all of their bullshit and fight for what we believe in nem?
    happy new year everyone :)

  8. cheflaszlo says:

    “Mr.cross-promotion” Molnár B (Alexandra) is seeing hard time… after the 2011 Gault Millau (just came out) and giving Fausto’s 16 points (kicked out Molnár once), placing Déryné next to Bock & Csalogány with 14 points. Where is Château Visz, Mr. Molnár? Did you just vote Visz in your 2010 Kalauz 16 points? Placing front of Costes??

    From now on, just learn to say “Déryné”. No respect greedy liar!

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    [...]one of our visitors recently recommended the following website[...]……

  149. … [Trackback]…

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  150. Recent Blogroll Additions……

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  151. Superb website…

    [...]always a big fan of linking to bloggers that I love but don’t get a lot of link love from[...]……

  152. Links…

    [...]Sites of interest we have a link to[...]……

  153. Recommeneded websites…

    [...]Here are some of the sites we recommend for our visitors[...]……

  154. Gems form the internet…

    [...]very few websites that happen to be detailed below, from our point of view are undoubtedly well worth checking out[...]……

  155. Looking around…

    I like to browse in various places on the online world, often I will go to Stumble Upon and read and check stuff out…

  156. Its hard to find good help…

    I am regularly saying that its difficult to get quality help, but here is…

  157. Tumblr article…

    I saw someone writing about this on Tumblr and it linked to…

  158. celebrity says:

    Gems form the internet…

    [...]very few websites that happen to be detailed below, from our point of view are undoubtedly well worth checking out[...]……

  159. Kyle leon says:

    Sources…

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  160. Check this out…

    [...] that is the end of this article. Here you’ll find some sites that we think you’ll appreciate, just click the links over[...]……

  161. Dreary Day…

    It was a dreary day here yesterday, so I just took to messing around on the internet and realized…

  162. Recommeneded websites…

    [...]Here are some of the sites we recommend for our visitors[...]……

  163. Visitor recommendations…

    [...]one of our visitors recently recommended the following website[...]……

  164. Click says:

    quality content on the web is one…

    of the keys to establishing you as an authority in your area of business, as well as getting your business found through search engines or referrals from social media sites.therefore, it’s important to find the best blogging tools with which to…

  165. News info…

    I was reading the news and I saw this really cool topic…

  166. Cool sites…

    [...]we came across a cool site that you might enjoy. Take a look if you want[...]……

  167. Read was interesting, stay in touch……

    [...]please visit the sites we follow, including this one, as it represents our picks from the web[...]……

  168. Read was interesting, stay in touch……

    [...]please visit the sites we follow, including this one, as it represents our picks from the web[...]……

  169. Chiropractor says:

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    [...] Wonderful story, reckoned we could combine a few unrelated data, nevertheless really worth taking a look, whoa did one learn about Mid East has got more problerms as well [...]……

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  171. telecom says:

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    [...] that is the end of this article. Here you’ll find some sites that we think you’ll appreciate, just click the links over[...]……

  172. Tumblr article…

    I saw a writer writing about this on Tumblr and it linked to…

  173. Weldon Dorka says:

    Blogs ou should be reading…

    [...]Here is a Great Blog You Might Find Interesting that we Encourage You[...]……

  174. Related……

    [...]just beneath, are numerous totally not related sites to ours, however, they are surely worth going over[...]……

  175. Just Browsing…

    While I was browsing today I saw a great post concerning…

  176. Informative and precise…

    Its difficult to find informative and precise information but here I found…

  177. Superb website…

    [...]always a big fan of linking to bloggers that I love but don’t get a lot of link love from[...]……

  178. You should check this out…

    [...] Wonderful story, reckoned we could combine a few unrelated data, nevertheless really worth taking a look, whoa did one learn about Mid East has got more problerms as well [...]……

  179. Sites we Like……

    [...] Every once in a while we choose blogs that we read. Listed below are the latest sites that we choose [...]……

  180. Dreary Day…

    It was a dreary day here yesterday, so I just took to piddeling around online and found…

  181. Yahoo results…

    While browsing Yahoo I discovered this page in the results and I didn’t think it fit…

  182. Read was interesting, stay in touch……

    [...]please visit the sites we follow, including this one, as it represents our picks from the web[...]……

  183. Hydroxatone says:

    Its hard to find good help…

    I am forever saying that its difficult to get good help, but here is…

  184. Superb website…

    [...]always a big fan of linking to bloggers that I love but don’t get a lot of link love from[...]……

  185. Awesome website…

    [...]the time to read or visit the content or sites we have linked to below the[...]……

  186. Read was interesting, stay in touch……

    [...]please visit the sites we follow, including this one, as it represents our picks from the web[...]……

 
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