According to one of my colleagues over at the drink-focused Pestiside.hu, the recently-opened Most! is a most welcome addition to the Budapest bar scene. Good news! And it gets better, because in my view it's an equally welcome addition to the Budapest restaurant scene.

Let me start by saying that I live quite nearby the place, and had long had hoped that the space it occupies - which I assume was originally some sort of garage or workshop - would eventually fall into the hands of someone able to capitalize on its numerous charms. For years it hosted a rather mediocre Mediterranean eatery/performance space called Articsóka, which, ironically enough, closed for good only after finally seeming to get it all right. Happily, what we have now is something that almost perfectly matches location with menu, offering diners a selection of interesting international and local dishes at prices suited to the modern bohemian. In fact, speaking of Bohemia, what the place really reminds me of is some of the better boho joints I used to go to in Prague back in the 90s, when that city had the regional monopoly on (non-annoying) hipster restaurants. Except with better food, because it's not being run by Czechs. But I digress.

So all that said, let's just take a quick look at some of what's on offer.

First up, soup. Who doesn't love a hearty tomato soup with thick shavings of parm, or a sweet marzipan strawberry cream soup? Okay, so many folks out there might hate the latter, but if it's your kind of thing, you'll like this one.

Among the various appetizers are these veggie Samosas with mint chutney (Ft 850). Not sure how well they would follow a big bowl of sweet strawberry soup, but they were sure crispy and tasty enough. You can also get pakoras with chicken (Ft 950) or shrimp (Ft 1,050) if Subcontinental is your thing.

Among the several salads are the Cobb two pics above (Ft 1,250). As is traditional with this salad, it is about as low-cal as the average chocolate sundae, and on this visit featured massive wedges of perfectly ripe avocado. You can also get a Caesar neat, with chicken or prawns. Below the Cobb is a slab of grilled Gomolya cheese with mixed greens, which is Ft 1,250 if ordered à la carte, and is very, very nice.

In terms of country/region of origin, the menu at Most is about as varied as you can get without being silly. Among the Hungarian - or at least Continental - mains is an excellent venison stew, which is pictured second from top, and which is available on the dinner menu for Ft 2,150 and for a Ft 500 supplement to the exceptionally reasonable Ft 1,250 three-course lunch menu. From the Asians we tried the Pad Thai (Ft 1,300, with optional chicken and shrimp adding an extra Ft 200 and Ft 300, respectively). While this was not so great, it's hard to complain given the continuing lack of decent Thai eats in Budapest. Less exciting still was the Hong Kong beef (Ft 1,600), since there is a fair selection of decent Chinese eats in town.

Using the same yardstick, no doubt the most exciting meal of all on offer at Most is the "daily Momo," a Momo being a type of dumpling that originates up in the Himalayas (third from top). I haven't been to Nepal or a Nepalese or Tibetan restaurant in ages, so I can't say whether these are faithful examples. But I think they probably are, because - get this - there's a Nepali cook at Most who makes them. Also, they tasted great. Either way, if you want Momo in Budapest, this is probably it.

I've unfortunately lost the pictures of some of the desserts I tried, as they were not only tasty but quite pretty. Behold a very tasty carrot cake with nectarine chutney and a mango lassi served in a martini glass (both Ft 650 if not taken at lunch). Take that, Prague!

Now, from what I've heard, some folks are already complaining that Most isn't what it was just a few months ago (it opened in September), allegedly due to the departure of one of its founding partners. But if anything, this griping is a sign of how much higher local foodies have set the bar - even for a restaurant that is mostly just a bar. Two thumbs up.