Although Konyári wines are highly regarded in Hungary and even come with a recommendation in the Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book, actually tracking down the winery's restaurant with a view, which we had heard so much about, wasn't quite as easy as first thought. The address, given only as Kishegy, Balatonlelle - as its name suggests, a "small hill" criss-crossed with crumbling tarmac - didn't give much away. Even more bafflingly, the name of the restaurant was signposted as the Majthényi Présház, without any mention of the up-and-coming winemaking family or their freshly built winery.But find it we did, and it was well worth the effort.

Once we did arrive at the Press House, at sundown on Friday night, we were greeted by a motley crew of local winemakers - from BB to Garamvári - as well as the Konyári father and son team János and Dániel. There was not a single paying guest - apart from ourselves - as we hunkered down to enjoy some above-average halászlé (fish soup), gatecrash the winetasting and keep our assignment to ourselves. Before retiring to our quarters in the nearby Konyári Tanya (farmhouse), a charming two room peasant house.

The following day, we enjoyed more of the scenery from atop Kishegy...

and visited the winery...

...before getting stuck into the food and local wines once again. The Balatonboglár/Lelle region is interesting in that it produces excellent reds, whites and rosés (as well as the Garamvári méthode traditionelle sparkling wines), available as table wine from just over Ft 1,100 (€4.40) a liter, right up to the award-winning Loliense red cuvée at somewhere above Ft 4,000 a bottle. In other words, it is a great place for anything from an afternoon fröccs and snack to an all-out wine dinner under the stars. The Konyádi range may still be a little hit and miss (or at least need plenty of air time before it really gets going) as the family adjusts to life in the Hungarian wine fast lane, but you really get the impression of a winery that is really going places - while putting that bare minimum of effort into marketing. Which is great for the handful of locals and German and Austrian Balaton residents enjoying the last of the year's sunshine with almost the whole lake to themselves. Although this kind of intimacy is a rare and fine thing, the Majthényi Présház is a secret that deserves to be shared. Not least because of the food.

There is little on the menu that you wouldn't find at any self-respecting csárda or countryside restaurant, but what was listed was very reasonably priced (mains at around around Ft 2,000) and faultless. Given the unique setting, friendly service and large quantity of wine and törköly aszú pálinka (grappa, but made with the marc of Tokaj's trademark Aszú grapes) consumed, we would have happily paid twice as much. And when hunger struck again, the meat and cheese platter was just the thing.

Unfortunately, this post may come too late for the 2007 season. The cellar is only open for special occasions from now until the spring. That said, the official closing day was Sunday, but the restaurant will be opened again for various functions this weekend so it might be worth giving them a call or dropping by on the off chance. Still, it is never too early to book a weekend package with the Konyáris for 2008 and beyond.