What do the Indian restaurants in Budapest have in common with the city’s étkezdék, or traditional Hungarian diners? The answer is, of course, not much, except everybody has a favorite they swear by. There seem to be lots of fans of Taj Mahal and the Chew Top 33″ favors Salaam Bombay, while my preference has long been for Pandzsab. But, and this is also true of the aforementioned étkezdék, it is really a crapshoot in terms of the service and quality of cooking in all these restaurants. Early reports from Kohinoor Indiai és Pakisztáni Étterem, a new Indian/Pakistani restaurant on Wesselényi in District VII, were good, but could it distinguish itself from the ever-growing list of like-minded competitors?
Determined to have a unique experience and get the best of the restaurant, I decided to let the waitress recommend my meal from the Pakistani choices. Perhaps not wanting to appear uninformed, she claimed the Pakistani dishes were “anything with lamb.” Not really wanting lamb, I asked if there were other Pakistani flavored dishes. Her response was “anything tandoori.” So much for that idea, as tandoori, though also prevalent in Pakistani cooking, is already a fairly universal offering on the Indian food dining scene. But okay, tandoori – meat baked in a special clay oven – is always a safe bet, and the fish tikka (up top), butterfish tandoori, was well-spiced and a good deal for the price of Ft 1,800 (€7.15).
The chicken byrani (above), another traditional Indian and Pakistani specialty that is something like curry-fried rice, for a mere Ft 1,300 was fine, though a bit heavy-handed on potato and stingy with the chicken. I prefer the byrani at Bangla Büfé for a mere Ft 850.
For appetizers there were standard samosa for Ft 350 (second from top) and for Ft 450 I tried a shammi kebab, a “special kebab” which turned out not to resemble a kebab at all, but was rather a patty of mushy minced chicken. The yogurt salad (below) turned out to be more of a sauce or soup of standard Bird’s Eye vegetables swimming in a yogurt base, randomly passed to us by a near-by diner who didn’t want it.
Most disappointingly, all the dishes came with the same masala yogurt dipping sauce. Indian food is famous for its varied chutneys and spicy sauces from mint to sour cherry. The white yogurt was tired after the samosa, and boring after the butterfish.
That said, there is no real reason to dismiss Kohinoor outright. It is in a good location, not too far from Blaha Lujza tér, the quality good, and service casual, if a bit slow on the night we were there. But, as with all Indian restaurants, you might have a totally different experience at Kohinoor. If so, let us know. (I have, for example, just heard via my editors that they do a mean slow-cooked chicken-lentil dish called heleem khasz.) With these prices, I would be willing to roll the dice again.
For those who work nearby, they offer a lunch menu comprising of a soup starter, a main course, vegetable side dish, plus a great mini-naan. The price of 900 for a small (though adequate) portion – 1100 for a larger helping, includes a glass of mineral water. The selection changes daily and is detailed on their website.
We just ordered delivery from them. We’re out in district 2/A and they have a decent delivery fee (1000 huf)… some other places are 1500-2300 huf (crazy!). We used to order from Indigo, but since their prices went up and the delivery fee too, we are trying out different options! Hope it will be good, keep you posted!
My wife and I visited the place this evening. It started off well. The waitress was friendly and spoke good English, and the mulligatawny soup starter which we shared was very full and flavourful. The potato pakoras was a little undercooked, but acceptable, with an accompanying tasty dark, fruity sweet/sour sauce. We both ordered salty lassis to accompany the meal.
Anticipating my spicy vindaloo main course, I ordered a second lassi. This is where things started to go wrong. It tasted completely different from the first one, with an after taste of hard-boiled egg! When I inquired if I had been given the same drink, I was told that there were two different chefs, and the other chef had prepared the first one. How about some consistency, guys? If I order a second one of the same, I don’t expect something different. Make your mind up about your recipe and stick to it!
The vindaloo was a disaster. It was basically a few pieces of chicken in gobs of slightly spicy tomato paste.
My wife ordered palak paneer (spinach & cheese). The cheese was too hard, the meal too creamy and not interestingly spiced. The rice was nearly cold.
“I have, for example, just heard via my editors that they do a mean slow-cooked chicken-lentil dish called heleem khasz” I can’t seem to find it on the menu, I would like to try it… Are you sure this dish is from this restaurant?
This review is almost a year old. Thankfully, menus change.
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