Yes, we know what you're thinking - it looks like a catfish! Anyway, what you have before you is a before-the-grill example of an interesting twist (pun intended) on the Hungarian grill staple of Császár (literally, "Caesar," as in "all hail"), a piece of meaty, un-smoked pork that's not so meaty it isn't also royally fatty.

What makes this particular Császár (center, between the ribs and the rabbit skewers) so imperial is that it comes braided (that's the fonott) and pre-soaked in a tangy but subtle marinade. Or at least a marinade that tasted subtle after the whole thing spent 20 or so minutes stoking our hardwood charcoal fire with delicious drips of the purest Hungarian hog grease. Having performed several tests of this product, we have decided it is better with the outside a little on the black side (though not overdone inside) which means you need to be pretty vigilant, and possibly keep a fire extinguisher handy.

As for where to get your hands on something like this, ours came from major Magyar meat-packer Délhús ("Southmeat"), though there isn't a mention of it on the company's website. (The site does feature the more pedestrian Fűszeres, or "spiced" Grill Császár, and is otherwise definately worth a visit if Hungarian hús is your thing.) At Tesco, it's been recently going for Ft 1,779 (€6.30) per kilo, which may seem like a lot, but isn't, when you finally get the thing onto the table, and watch it disappear faster than it probably took to braid up and dump in the marinade. Keep up the good work, Southmeat.