Feb 05 '07

Hungarian, African-Style (II): Mauritanian Camel Beats Magyar Beef in Desert Tarhonya Test

Just because many participants in the 2007 Budapest-Bamako rally chickened out of eating fresh fish, it doesn't mean the event was devoid of culinary adventure. Far from it!

In fact, one of the most memorable interludes of the trip revolved around food, and, more specifically, an experiment involving a traditional Hungarian dish, and a traditional Saharan ingredient.

As we and the other contestants arrived at a resort hotel just outside the Mauritanian capital of Nouakchott the weekend before last, we were steered towards a large, fenced-in area next to the beach. In the middle stood two members of the Lucullus Baráti Társaság - Hungary's most progressive culinary fraternity - tending a pair of traditional Hungarian stewing kettles (bogrács) they had dragged on the top of their car all the way from home. And inside the kettles was a feast of tarhonya made from Hungarian pasta pellets, some water, spices, and 15 kilograms of fresh Mauritanian camel (teve) meat.

As you'd imagine, the scene was a little different from your average backyard bogrács, and not just because of the meat.

But the big surprise was just how good the tevetarhonya was. In fact, by our second bowl, we started to get the feeling that maybe Hungary's beef ranchers could learn a thing or two from Mauritania's camel herders.

We would have gone back for thirds to make a final judgment on whether Saharan camel is more tender and flavorful than Hungarian beef, but by the time we finished our seconds, the other Hungarians had already voted with their stomachs.

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