Before I start, I'll admit I'm a bit of a stickler when it comes to Thai, mostly because I have had the luxury of eating lots of Thai in Thailand, and have worked at a respected (though slightly Americanized) Thai restaurant in Seattle. So, it didn't take me long to realize that in Budapest it might be easier to find Chinese-made túró snacks than proper Thai food. But since my love affair with Thai predates my residence in the farmer's cheese capital of Europe, I decided to try out Bangkok House Thai Restaurant (follow link for contact details and user feedback), one of the city's few Thai restaurants (clue us in if we are missing any), on the advice of a friend, who told me it was "good."

So I went, and I ate until I was stuffed. But before go into any further detail about the experience, let me elaborate on my personal criteria for "good" when it comes to eating Thai food, particularly in this era of Asian fusion. Because, as I see it, what makes for good Thai isn't authenticity or, alternatively, uniqueness, but exactly what makes other cuisines good: a combination of freshness, timeliness and balance.

In Thai food especially, the ingredients should be fresh, from veggies to noodles and back again. Timing is fused to freshness: noodles or chicken, for instance, should not overcooked or allowed to sit for too long. And balance means that the mélange of these fresh, perfectly-cooked ingredients - which in Thai can include the combination of cilantro, lime, fish sauce, tamarind, peanuts, meats and chilies - should complement, and not distract from one another. There are obviously regional differences in Thai food, but these differences don't compromise the importance of freshness, timeliness or balance, nor do they tolerate substitutes. Ketchup, soy sauce, or Erős Pista could quickly transform a great dish into shoddy fusion with just a smidgeon.

My expectations of finding this perfect combination in Budapest were not high. And when I arrived at Bangkok House Thai Restaurant, the place was completely empty (admittedly, I was there at five on a sunny summer weeknight), and the menu seemed almost too extensive, offering some dishes I'd heard of and many I hadn't.

Nevertheless, I gave it a go, ordering Pad Thai as it is served on the street in Bangkok, with tofu (above, Ft 1,750; €8) not meat. My dining companion decided on the green curry with chicken and steamed rice (Ft 1,950, €8.50; Ft 400, €1.70). We each had a pohar of Dreher beer, (Ft 450; €2) which was promptly delivered, after which came our meals, piping hot.

Yes, hot, though we hadn't been asked about our preference for spice. Personally, I love the heat, and the spiciness didn't detract from the flavors (a sign of quality, in my opinion). But diners cool on hot food could be turned off if not given the option.

Other than that, the food was top notch. The pad Thai was a medium-sized dish and near perfectly composed. The noodles were tender but not sticky. The tofu was gently fried but didn't crumble. The fish sauce wasn't clumpy or too strong. The decent helping of veggies included a sweet carrot carved into a rose, freshly-cut, juicy cucumber, lime, and plenty of crunchy bean sprouts. As in Thailand, there were sides of granulated sugar, chili, and finely-ground peanuts on the plate, which gave me the chance me make the dish as sweet, spicy and nutty as I wanted. The only missing component was the characteristic banana leaf served on the side or sometimes as a plate, but that's got to be hard to come by in Hungary, so I was fine with the piece of crunchy romaine instead.

Equally aromatic but surprisingly soup-like, the green curry (above) was made from water rather than coconut milk. While it appeared really thin, the flavors were crisp and complex. The dish wasn't overly salted nor dominated by spice, though it was fiery. The pieces of chicken were good-sized and the veggies, including lots of soft large mushrooms, were plentiful. Combined with a side order of rice, the dish was enough for one.

The basement restaurant's décor (top photo) was elegant but not posh. White linen offset colorful and shiny Thai fabrics, while drawings and paintings hung along a woven mat of wallpaper. A framed photo of the King and Queen of Thailand, as is usual in many Thai establishments, cast a stern gaze over us.

I left satisfied, though if I go again I'll order a soup or appetizer to really fill up. The only reason I'd abstained was because I'd hoped to keep the bill manageable. Indeed, the prices were a little higher than my usual dinnertime budget: the total with a 10% tip came to just under Ft 3,000 (€13) per person.

All told, Bangkok House Thai Restaurant managed to tick all of my boxes, which certainly qualifies it as "good" - or even better than good - I'll find out more when I head back for seconds.