May 06 '08

Good Golly These Gofri Are Yummy!

Anytime is a good time for Budapest's legendary "ice buffet" waffles

Jégbüfé Budapest gofri waffle

Jégbüfé Budapest gofri waffle

Jégbüfé Budapest gofri waffle

Food lines in Budapest are pretty much a thing of the past, unless you are talking about the one which regularly snakes down Kossuth utca outside the portal of a window at the Jégbüfé (follow link for contact details, maps and user ratings) where the gofri guy sweats like short-order cook to keep up with orders. A mere Ft 250 (€1) gets you what Americans know as a waffle, folded over either vanilla or chocolate pudding, or jam. Whether the weather is blustery or balmy, wet or dry, a steaming hot gofri fresh from the Jégbüfé's well-worn "Waffo-Fix" brand waffle iron is most certainaly a Budget Budapest favorite.

Jégbüfé Budapest gofri waffle

Through the glass window, you can see that the gofri stand works like clockwork. As with the Soup Nazi, the New York counter proprietor on the beloved American sitcom Seinfeld, it is best to have your order and money ready by the time you get to the front of the line. The gofri guy, forehead creased in concentration, looks like he tolerates no dilly-dallying, and certainly those behind you won't appreciate the delay.

Jégbüfé Budapest gofri waffle

If it is too cold or hot outside, take your gofri indoors and join the masses of locals and tourists inside the "ice buffet," where all sorts of ice cream and traditional Hungarian pastries and confections are served by very old-school cukraszok. The sweet shop is one of the city's institutions, with its bizarre ordering system and huge picture windows that look out onto bustling Ferenciek tere. There is almost no better place to sit and watch commuters go by while you enjoy your devilishly good, extremely decadent waffle, which can only be improved by an espresso or tejeskávé.

Though it seems clear that gofri is of Belgian origin, the type you are likely to encounter in Hungary is the lighter, breadier Polish sort, thought they are more likely to top it with fruit or chocolate than syrup and butter, as Americans do. (By the way, in Poland gofri are called gofry - go figure.)

Meanwhile, for those really into gofri culture, another of the best in the city can be found at Kiskőleves on Horánszky in District VIII, where the gofri are faithful to the crispier, lighter Belgian recipe.

Either way, quit your waffling, and go get some.

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