When we first met eccentric wine-pusher József Szentesi, we were so taken with him and his wines that we promised to write gushing reviews of his other business ventures. While the long-awaited lowdown on the Maligán Borétterem (and its new Austrian chef) is still pending, we did recently pay a visit to the Gold Center for a spot of lunch at the Gold Bisztró (follow link for contact info and user feedback). If you think sports center nourishment stops at Gatorade and bananas, barge through reception muttering “éhes vagyok” (I’m hungry) and prepare to be pleasantly surprised.
First off, don’t be deceived by the stylish interior, the Gold Bisztró is not some swanky restaurant serving miserly portions at overblown prices. On the contrary, our meal of soup and a main came to a grand total of Ft 2,350 (€9.40). That’s for two, and including two home-style lemonades and a Ft 50 box to take the ample leftovers home in.
The lunch concept and pricing is simple, a main costs Ft 800 (€2.20), two courses set you back Ft 950 (€3.80) and the full meal is Ft 1,100 (€4.40) – or what you would pay for a value meal with tubs of ketchup and mayo at your local American WC franchise. The menu rotates each week with four soups or salads, five entrées and four desserts to choose from – the current offering can be viewed by scrolling to the bottom of this page.
On the summer week in question, we opted for the cold cantaloupe and hot karalábé soups (above), followed by rostélyos steak with pepper sauce and mash and garlic tarja (below), all of which represented astonishing value.
Despite the price, the beef was of excellent quality, so much so, that the chef could afford to leave plenty of pink on the inside, a sight for sore eyes in this “well done” town.
Meanwhile, the pork was what you could reasonably expect for three times the price, while the soups – an oft-neglected Hungarian specialty – were nothing short of devine. Seriously.
There really is little left to add, we’ll let the pictures and, in particular, the prices do the talking, and next time, we promise to leave some space for dessert.
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