Tuesday afternoon I stopped by Arriba Taqueria for a taste of their new fish tacos. Now I love tacos, especially fish tacos, and these were a real treat, in part because Arriba jefe for life Mo Ortiz was there to make sure I put the right toppings on, and was otherwise being such a sweetheart I couldn't bear to tell him that what I really wanted was a big dirty csülkös magyaros lepény, a.k.a. the Hungarian pork knuckle burrito.

I happened on this apparently recent invention among the various stalls featuring Hungarian cuisine at last weekend's Nemzeti Vagta ("National Gallop") event. I say "apparently recent invention" because after eating it I asked several in-the-know people, and they all thought it was something new, or at least newish.

As for what it is, the surrounding pictures tell most of the story. What they don't tell you is that the word lepény can mean many things in Hungarian (tehénlepény is the equivalent of "cow patty," by the way) but in this case it means something similar in thickness and taste to a flour tortilla, but made at least partly from potato. After I placed my order, one of the two women at the stand warmed mine on a griddle for a few seconds (above), using what appeared to be a paint-scraper as a spatula.

After this came a coating of sour cream. Note the food service gloves: In addition to being increasingly diverse and elegant-looking, these sorts of food fairs over recent years have become much more attuned to sanitary issues.

Then the meat, which is really what makes the dish recognizably Hungarian. This stand offered both csülkös and szallonás (pork belly/bacon) versions. I went for the knuckle, which was Ft 100 more.

Now add some sliced tomatoes, red onions and cheese.

And back on the grill for a minute or two more. After this I was asked if I wanted mine spicy, and when I said yes, my server added a glaze of Erős Pista (see first pic). If you're familiar with "Strong Steve" you may have noticed that, when it is paired with the right food (Hungarian, natch), it really is one of the world's great hot sauces. And this was the right food.

As for the overall effect, the combination of super-tender and flavorful meat, pungent onions, double dairy fat, crunchy tomatoes and mouth-warming pepper was nothing short of breathtaking - and not just because of what my breath probably smelled like afterwards. Really, if anyone thinks they know of a better variety of meaty street food that has been cooked up in recent years, in Hungary or anywhere else, I'm all ears. In the meantime, if anyone is thinking about opening a stand like this on a permanent basis somewhere in Budapest, I'm all mouth.