For years, the international community in the leafy ex-pat ghetto of Hüvösvölgy (chilly valley) to the north of Budapest has been dining out at Náncsi Néni. But times are changing and moneyed suburbanites are looking for something new, exciting and Italian in their area. At least that's the thinking behind Novelli, the latest addition to Budapest's growing collection of high-end Italian restaurants. So, what's so new and exciting about Novelli?

The most striking novelty about Novelli, at least for Budapest diners, is that the only thing smoking in the restaurant is the roaring "Roman-style open fireplace." The lack of smoke is conspicuous in its absence, and in the fact that the birthday party of French teachers from the nearby lycée spent half of the time standing outside the door. How very cosmopolitan.

And cosmopolitan is about right, because in addition to targeting for the international clientèle from the BP 'burbs, Novelli is run by two Austrians and employs three Italian chefs in the kitchen, including Raimondo Mendolia, owner of Pecatti di Gola and president of the Italian Chef's Association in Hungary. The result is a fusion of unobtrusive interior design (because Austrians do unobtrusive so well), top-end Italian food and music (with a level of cheesiness befitting all three nations) that is just a little bit too loud for a restaurant. If excessive volume levels are the only thing that the local wait staff bring to the table, that's OK with us, because - particularly by Hungarian standards - the service was quick and genial. And for those who live in Budapest because they can still smoke, the owners are promising to spice up the large terrace area with a palm tree and cocktail bar in the very near future.

Of course, we didn't spend all evening out on the steps smoking. The menu (available for download here) is not as daunting as some War and Peace-style tomes in Budapest, but we asked for a selection of food as recommended by our "psychic" waiter anyway - old acquaintance from the Kéhli Vendéglő. As a result, we were served up the obligatory (and very generous) spread of cheese (Ft 1,860), fogacia and melon with parma ham above to kick off with (above).

This was followed by the primi piatti, fresh ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta and covered in walnut sauce (Ft 1,480, that's a half portion in the pic). This was the real highlight of the evening, and the perfect way to lead into the main course...

...of asado grilled veal ribs(Ft 2,350), which were as succulent and well-seasoned as you would expect. Our dining partner had a salad, which although fresh, crisp and satisfying, is not really worth a photo. And finally there was the excellent chocolate "volcano" soufflé with vanilla ice cream (Ft 1,230).

The food was solid, and given the possibly more exciting items on the menu, potentially excellent. Assuming you are a well-heeled expat from the hills, it was also reasonable value - the whole lot came to Ft 15,000 (€60 with prosecco and several glasses of wine), and despite the half portion and shared dessert, left us gasping for air. Other dinners opted for a pizza, which, weighing in at well under Ft 1,500, represents excellent value - especially if you factor in not having to get your suit dry cleaned afterwards to remove the cigarette smoke that clouds most local pizzerias.