Budapest Gets Its First Michelin Star. Now What?
What a difference a week can make. Last Monday afternoon at around this time, I was trying to wrap up arrangements for a weekend wine dinner that would bring back together a small group I've been drinking and dining with over the past decade or so. Because we tend to hold the dinners at restaurants, and bring the wines we taste, setting a date usually involves negotiating over whether and how much we have to pay in so-called "corkage" fees. I'd just heard back from our first choice for Saturday's dinner - Costes - whose manager told me they would charge us Ft 3,000 for each bottle we brought and opened, down from their normal Ft 6,000. Given the current state of the economy even a 50% discount for popping a cork struck me as a bit rich, so I told him we'd think about it and get back to them on Wednesday. As it turned out, they got what they were asking for, because by the time I called them back the news had arrive that the restaurant had become the first in Hungary to receive a coveted Michelin Star.
In addition to the awkwardness of my follow-up call to confirm that our tentative reservation still held - I could almost hear the smile on the other end of the phone - the restaurant's sudden catapulting into the Michelin star system had let to some inter-group snickering. One of the gang, a globe-trotter who probably eats at more starred restaurants than most normal people eat at restaurants period, had earlier been vocal in saying he didn't think we should bother with Costes, as he had recently found it not so exciting. Now it suddenly was.
The whole thing was a bit awkward for me as well, though for different reasons. While in recent years I've become intensely skeptical about the focus on such awards by local restaurateurs and foodies, I put myself on record almost five years ago saying that Budapest could benefit from such a "race to the stars." So when we sat down for a tour through the shorter (five course) of the restaurant's two tasting menus on Saturday night, there was something at stake for almost everyone in the room, not least the folks who just a few days before had discovered they had a worldwide reputation to protect.
As for the immediate question at hand - does Costes deserve its star - I'd say the answer is yes, and most everyone at my table of experienced star-eaters agreed. The one common complaint voiced was about the white gloves the servers are forced to wear, which seemed silly when I first reviewed the restaurant last year, and seem even sillier now, if that's possible.
I will confess that when I saw the plate of pan-fried duck breast with barley risotto and sweet-root sauce pictured third from top my first reaction was, are you joking? I also didn't really like the flavor of the (not pictured) fish soup with octopus that preceded it by a couple of courses, and didn't see much point in the little glass ramekin of blue mountain coffee beans that were allegedly "aromatizing" the foie gras.
Everything else, however, seemed undeniably star-worthy. The finest chocolate confection you can imagine paired with a pillow of raspberry and Piquillo pepper ice cream is clearly something you only find in food heaven.
And given the obvious cost of some of the ingredients (lobster and squid-ink/crab ravioli) the base price of the menu (Ft 15,000) struck me as eminently reasonable - even before factoring in the extra little treats they throw your way, all of which were either delicious, surprising (cauliflower cream shooters!) or both. The atmosphere and service (12% is tacked on the bill for the latter) are also top-notch, at least in local terms. Writing yesterday in Index.hu, the wise and meticulously fair Hungarian journalist and critic Péter Magyari summed up the experience by saying, in positive terms, that dining at Costes was like visiting a museum. When the chef - the Argentine Nicolas Delgado, who replaced the outgoing Portuguese star Miguel Vieira in January - stopped by our table, the congratulations were sincere.
All that said, I must admit that I left with a strange feeling of being both overwhelmed and underwhelmed at the same time. For one thing, all the fireworks made it impossible for me to concentrate on the wines we were supposed to be judging. By the time we were halfway through our traditional blind tasting of four flights of wine pairs, I'd stopped taking notes altogether. And aside from the miraculous harmony of that pepper-fruit ice cream, the endless riot of different flavors often seemed as exhausting as exhilarating.
Which brings me back to the larger question of what the exhaustion and exhilaration involved in getting (and keeping) a Michelin star really mean in a place like Hungary. Back in January, leading Hungarian daily Népszabadság published a breathless piece about the recent spotting of Michelin critics in Budapest, and the likelihood that Costes and/or another of a handful of high-end eateries visited by the Michelin men (Babel Delicatesse, Fausto's, Tigris and Bock Bistro) would get a star when the 2010 edition of Michelin's Main Cities of Europe was published in the spring. The story noted the earlier announcement that the almost-as-prestigious GaultMillau had given Babel and Fausto's two toques, apparently the equivalent of a Michelin star in GM's rating scheme, adding that all the attention was "writing the Hungarian capital on the gastronomy map of the world." When word of Costes' triumph finally came it was front-page news, along with the granting of the less-coveted "bib" award to Bock, the 21 Étterem, Arcade Bistro and Csalogány 26. Oh happy day!
As you can probably tell, I'm more than a little skeptical about the whole thing. Here's why.
For one thing, having seen a photocopy of the relevant pages from the new book, I just don't agree with some of the reviewer's/reviewers' conclusion. I'll confess, I haven't been to Onyx apart from a wedding reception, but is it really a full step above Baraka? And why Mokka and Dió but not Stand, which is right across the street, and at least as good? Everyone is entitled to their opinion. But no one is entitled to having their opinions treated as gospel.
Speaking of gospel, the obscure, scripture-like code behind the Michelin rating system itself is annoying, to say the least. Why are some of the restaurants that have been granted two forks and knifes listed before others with the same rating, when there is nothing to indicate why they shouldn't just be listed in alphabetical order? And what's with Gundel being listed first - with four forks and knives, more than any other local eatery - when everyone knows it's now just a fancy catering joint? Don't bother answering, because I know why: Because the editors of the guide want to make subtle hints about who may be on the way up in their book, who may be on the way down, who might get a star if they really tried, and who needs to settle for just a bib. (Apparently once you get one of those you can go ahead and give up on ever getting a star.) They want to encourage restaurants to do their best to conform to Michelin's widely-respected standards of excellence.
The problem is that, for Michelin, "excellent" seems to mean the same thing as "fancy and expensive." If a place is fancy and expensive and has excellent food, it gets stars or lots of forks and knives. If a place is fancy and expensive and has mediocre food they get a few forks and knives, and encouragement to make the food a little less forgettable. If a place is not fancy or terribly expensive but has excellent food, they get a pat on the head and a little bib so that people with more taste than money can go there and not dirty things up for the fancy people.
In case you think I'm exaggerating, consider that the proprietor of one truly excellent restaurant in Budapest was reportedly told by the Michelin folks that the place could be in line for a star, provided he cut the number of seats in the joint by 50% and raise his prices by 50%. Hello?
There's nothing bad with fancy and expensive, as long as it's paired with culinary excellence. But the last thing Hungary needs is more restaurants where the food takes a back seat to pricey swank. Costes seems to have earned its star, and should be proud of this achievement. But five years after calling for a "star war" among higher-end Budapest restaurants, I'm more than ready to call it off.
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Migues Vieira deserves the "Macaron". Nicolas
Delgado has now to show the world that he deserves
one too! At this time we should consider that this
first star does not mean anything and everything has
still to be proven by the new appointed Chef.
Until then, let's go to Babel and enjoy the new
menu!
Best conspiracy theory ever: the testers gave up on Budapest before getting to the letter D.
@Matt: Just FYI from what I understand the Michelinmen came back and ate at Costes after Delgado arrived.
Is Babel any good? I mean, it's on that tacky
tourist street, and never looks very busy.
@Erik: then the Guy must be a genius! In such a
short period of time, he is able to bring the place
to high standards. In the same time he is able to
recognized 'Inspecteurs Michelin' who are supposed
to remain anonymous... Respect!
@Jancis Robinson: on my point of view, right now,
Babel is the best place in town. High quality
products, high level execution, efficient service,
very interesting creativity, etc... Everything that
makes a good place!
Stand is like a big mehhh, see the comment of Janka:
http://www.caboodle.hu/nc/directories/category/subcategory/single_page/stand_bistro/?user_bd_pi1[showMap]=1&cHash=c88cc5690f
which was my experience there, too.
@matt: I have not eaten at Bable yet, but it sounds like you work for the damn place :D.
Does anybody else share his opinion about Babel being so great?...my parents went a while back and concluded that it sucked...hard...
"Now what?" means getting more stars and more restaurants getting stars.
To my knowledge Prague was the first post communist city to get a Michelin star. I'm glad Budapest made it.
To get a Michelin star you have to have food, service and management that is at the top tier by international, and not communist era standards.
You also need an economy and clientele that supports international standards. That means very discriminating people with money.
It's a good sign, although tempered by the reality that most Hungarians couldn't afford to dine in such a place. But you have to keep setting the standard for others, and offer top notch alternatives to those who know how to take their money elsewhere.
they have it now . . . . . but . . . . can they keep it???
i don,t think so!
Duck breast must be something very special and spherically expensive thing in Costes. We got the same ridiculous size in December. However, the dessert (chocolate combinations) was the greatest portion and best part of our dinner.
There are a lot of high-end restaurants with fine or interesting but small dishes and very expensive prices in Budapest, not far from Costes in terms of quality. Perhaps their quantity is far more than enough because they are really nearly empty even in the best evening period.
The real problem is the lack of simple places with good Hungarian food and good price per value ratio.
If the Michelin guys knew the Chef changed and they went back to see what Mr. Delgado cooks i wonder why are Miguel dishes in the guide and not the Delgado ones...
Nicolas Delgado already LOST one Michelin Star at Le Ferme de St. Simon, lets hope he doesnt do the same here in Hungary...
Honestly, if he keeps this way, next years kaput...
@Peter:
So you've been since the chef changed??? and the food sucks? I need info because I am planning on going on Thursday...
@Peter: do you feel any problem in the dishes pictured above? I think the outlook and overall visible quality very similar to that of Miguel's era.
Unfortunately, the size of duck breast is totally the same. :(
@jonn - yes ive been there a couple of times since the new Chef has arrived. My personnal opinion is that this guy is not in the same league as the previous one...
@Hapci - No, i dont have any problem with the pictures above, ive been there and saw it by myself. I dont agree that the food looks and tastes the same as before, i really dont... To me Miguels food is far way better than Nicolas
@peter
any suggestions for alternatives to Costes (gonna give it a try on thu. and let you know how it goes or compares to Miguel era).
If Baraka gets a Michelin star it means food as lost. Sorry, but that place is ghastly.
The Miró style presentation just depresses me.
As for the snob silo effect of the Michelin stars, it's more than helpful. Everyone should know their place. Just like the bag, clothes and accessory shops infecting Andrássy and Vörösmárty tér it helps to know what to avoid or at least expect from a place.
More sobering was the news that came with the star of what it took to get it. They were unable to rely on their near 100% Hungarian staff (now they have a good proportion of foreigners), their Hungarian suppliers were useless, leading them to import from France, then they couldn't rely on the Hungarian deliverers so ended up buying their own van and bringing the stuff in themselves.
Was this rely a star for Hungary?
@Vándorló: Where are you getting the info about the staff and supplier problems? Published report, or scuttlebutt? (Not that I would necessarily trust the former over the latter.)
@Erik: Maybe I'm overstating what I read, but from memory I know only 2 of the chefs/cooks are Hungarian. The blog that originally broke the news of the star had some comments about this http://otthonedes.blog.hu/2010/03/16/breaking_news_megvan_az_elso_budapesti_michelin_csillag
But I also read some of this stuff elsewhere though I haven't bookmarked them. I know the 'Food Police' blog reviewed Costes a month or so ago. Also I think it was Origo that had an interview with the Chef and owner that mentioned these.
Could be confabulation, but I doubt it.
@Erik: Remembered where I read most of it http://plastik.hu/2010/01/21/ebedelni-voltam-a-costesben-masnap-costes-az-ev-etterme/
Maybe the Plastik Blog isn't the best of sources. Still it ties with what the owner and chef say themselves.
I have always thought this is fabulous restaurant, way above comparable places in UK (like Jamies Oliver's or Gordon Ramsey's - although especially Maze is excellent) or Germany - especially the service, in France, well, that's bit different but at least my french friends have enjoyed it lot. For an italian it is also nice to eat french style food which is not so easily available in italy... Incidentally, Fausto's would be top class restaurant also in italy... to bad it was not recognized by Michelin
i don't get what is wrong having foreign staff? Even in cities like Paris or London, (excellent) italian restaurants have italian staff (even waiters - my favourite one has even all from Lombardia), french restaurants have french staff (again my favorite french restaurant in london is run by almost 100 % french), chinese chinese, japanese, indian the same etc etc.
Most likely the same person would complain if chinese restaurant had hungarian people working (lack of authenticity)...
I am not top level expert in french food (italian maybe...) but nowadays the best french type of food is served in france and (though a bit more avantgarde version) Catalonia, so predictably best chefs would have been working there to learn the trade. I might be a bit orthodix, but i do think that best parma ham you get from Parma, or if you want to create typical veneto dishes, you need to use authentic asiago (not even mention like mozzarella which best you get from Campania...) I dare to think to use e.g. british versions of these...
@Ile: There's nothing wrong with having foreign staff, getting their ingredients from Paris etc... None of it.
As this article hints at though, this is an international restaurant serving international customers with international taste. It is not Hungarian in any meaningful sense of the word. That is not a bad thing. Nor is it a good thing. It is what it is.
An international restaurant that happens to have a physical location in Budapest was awarded some international recognition.
As the latest HVG interview with Gerendai Károly points out: 'Costes will not be turned into a Hungarian restaurant, we will leave this to others'. ("A Costesből nem lesz magyaros étterem, ezt meghagyjuk másoknak." cf. http://hvg.hu/gasztronomia/20100402_Gerendai_Karoly_Costes/ )
p.s. I note a decent review of the more down to earth, less fusion, molecular gastronomy (or deconstructive gastronomy as Ferran Adria insists on calling it) restaurants that are definitely Hungarian are reviewed in HétiVálasz online today ("Kihagyhatatlan! Magyarország 10 legjobb étkezdéje!"). These are a useful counterbalance to the Fat Duck type excess (cf. hetivalasz.hu/itthon/kihagyhatatlan-magyarorszag-10-legjobb-etkezdeje-28337 )
@Vándorló: probably it would be useful if the so called 'best' Hungarian restaurant also features at least scents of Hungarian gastronomy. If there will be 5 restaurants with Michelin star or double GaultMillau cap it is totally o.k. if Costes is one of them, featuring only characteristics of international fine dinign.
Aside from some odd sense of national pride...why?
Went last week and had the 5 course taster.
What we thought:
Squid soup was apalling. GHASTLY. The squid was wonderful but the soup itself, bleh!
First few courses were ok, but not as great as previous chef.
Taster was saved by the last 3 courses, lobster, duck and dessert were SUBLIME!
By the way, we were served a snail and porridge reminicient of Blumenthal's signature dish. What's with the copycat move? Seemed a little strange...b
@john - so, do you agree with me that miguel foods its better than delgado?
@C'est Moi: because Hungary has traditions in gastronomy. It would be a good sign for its development if a restaurant involved in it Hunagarian tastes would get the star.
It would be strange if the best restaurants in France offer Japanese and/or Italian kitchen, not?
Hapci - there are resturants all over the planet which serve, and get stared, for non-local dishes. Can you tell us what countries don't have a "traditions in gastronomy". Hungary does have some great food, and I am not trying to slag them off, but fried cheese with jam, gulyas, and langos don't get many Michelin ratings.
@Peter
I've given this a lot of thought and sadly I am a little unsure. The last time I was in Costes when Miguel was cooking was exactly 1 year ago so memories are a bit fuzzy. The way I can put it together best would be that both cooks have their pros and cons. Maybe Miguel is the better all-round experience but where Delgado excels (polenta that came with the duck, lobster) he managed to impress us more than Miguel. Unfortunately some of Delgado's dishes are abysmal.
In summary:
Tasting menu - clear win for Miguel
A la carte (provided you know what you are eating) - clear win for Delgado
Nicolas Delgado is so good and so professional that he is already leaving... Guess Hungary was too much for him, even beeing Argentinian...
He's leaving? Really? Link/source?
@Erik - lets say i have my sources... the guy knows that hes not good enough and is making a move before the star its gone...
you gotta love anonymous people with anonymous sources... Why do people feel so confident on the internet, yet hide as no-names... I'll never understand.
@Wendy: Well, just because someone won't say who they are or where they get their information from doesn't mean that what they are saying/predicting isn't valid - all media works on background sources. Meanwhile, since most food media in a place like Hungary is PR, news like this is likely to leak out first via anonymous chit-chat like this.
@Jancis Robinson, first of all, so cool if you really are JR! With
respect to Babel, I was there a month ago with a group of four. One
had the vegetarian tasting menu, and the rest of us had the
international tasting menu. Presentation & creativity were good, but
the dishes were all hit or miss. All of us were indifferent toward or
disliked more of the dishes than we liked. Service was eager but
unpolished. It *is* often empty, but oddly it can also be hard to get
a reservation, so it's good to call ahead and check. For the money,
Borssó Bistro is hard to beat (and non-smoking to boot).
whos you daddy?! :D
http://www.origo.hu/utazas/20100430-uj-sefet-keresne-a-michelincsillagos-costes-etterem.html
guess what, http://otthonedes.blog.hu/2010/05/08/visszater_a_costes_michelin_csillagos_sefje_portugaliabol
what do you guys think about this?