One of the reasons for the "ceasefire" that brought the Budapest Burgerwar to a halt for several months was the question of what on Earth to say about all the more or less interchangeable "delivery-only" burgers that ended up being ordered, quickly scarfed down and then just as quickly forgotten. At some point I'm going to find a way to account for these mostly unmemorable "virtual" burgers, but for now will just say a word about the most remarkable of the group, which came to the office a few weeks back from Taco Express.

The big news about Taco Express' Cheeseburger is that it is big. Really big. You know this immediately when you see the (nicely corporate) box it comes in, but it only really hits you when you try to take a bite. As for the 180-gram patty, it is pretty tasty, and slathered in a pleasant mess of pump-like yellow cheese, rather than the white stuff usually found on order-only burgers. Interestingly, all the burgers they offer have the same list price of Ft 990 (€4), except for the "Chorizo" (Ft 1,090) and the double-patty "Giga" (Ft 1,390).

For me, there were only two drawbacks. One was the bun, which was just a bit too big and chewy, though covered in proper sesame seeds, and more than up to the task of holding the oversized puck. The second were the truly terrible, cold and soggy fries that came (along with a coke) with a Ft 480 menü upgrade. (Similarly disappointing were the once-great jalapeño poppers I added to my order, but that's a different story.)

So all told, without those frighteningly bad fries, and with a slightly more manageable bun, this could have been a major contender. But leave behind the spuds and you have a burger that could have been forgettable but is actually very much worth remembering.

How They Stack Up:

Meat: 8/10
Bun: 7/10
Trimmings: 2/10
Service/Settings: N/A
Value: 8/10
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Total Score: 6.25/10