In a review last week of a particularly notably delivery-only burger, I briefly noted how the proliferation of such burgers was one of the primary obstacles to a more speedy resolution of the Budapest Burgerwar™. But the problem isn't just the sheer number of "virtual" burgers being cooked up in kitchens hidden around the city. It's the question of how to rate a burger if you can't tell what kind of meat it's made from - or even that what you think is meat really is. Without naming names, I'll just say that over the last several months I've had the dubious pleasure of eating numerous burgers featuring patties made from what many Hungarians artfully call gyíkhús. While it literally means "lizard meat," the term is used to describe any meat that you can't confidently connect with any specific animal.

This being Hungary, where pigs outnumber lizards by at least 100 to one, most Hungarian "lizard" meat is probably pork, with a little of whatever else is lying around thrown in for good measure. And since the average piece of Hungarian pork is usually about 100 times better than the average piece of Hungarian beef, the result is often pretty tasty, in a, well, lizardy sort of way.

But the bottom line is that it's a waste of everyone's time, and the increasingly limited room in our stomachs, to try to rate every last thing in Budapest called a "burger." So while we might make a special prize for "best burger made from a meat known only to the cook," from now on, we're going to focus on the mystery of what the best burger in Budapest is, rather than the riddle of what some of these "burgers" are actually made of.