When it comes to restaurants, nothing breeds excellence like competition. So we hereby unilaterally declare a battle to the death - or at least a spirited contest - between key Budapest Bavarian rivals Paulaner Brauhaus and the Haxen Király Sörház Étterem, to see once and for all who can make the best bajor-style ropogós csülök (crunchy pork knuckle) in town. Because from what we can tell, Paulaner's knuckle could really use a little competitive edge.

The above ropogós csülök bajorkáposztával, burgonya és zsemlegombóccal is the second such crunchy pork knuckle with Bavarian cabbage, potatoes and bread dumplings (Ft 2,750) we've had in maybe the last six months at Paulaner. And both times it seemed to be only a pale imitation of Haxen's, which is both crunchier on the outside and significantly more tender and juicy on the inside. Plus, the sauce is totally unnecessary.

Of course, we could just give up on Paulaner, or stick to their heaving plates of sausages. But we actually like the place, despite its shopping mall location, occasionally frosty service and (even worse) the Casio band. And proper ropogós csülök with a nice big mug of German búzasör (weißbier) is one of life's greatest guilty pleasures. So may the best csülök win, and the worst one, well, get a little better.