As reported on these pages all too often, Budapest is awash with high-priced, high-concept restaurants that fail to live up to their own hype once the oversized plate of undersized food lands on the pristine white tablecloth. And while prices appear very competitive with the eurozone at first glance, many locals cannot afford to eat out, while genuine value for money is elusive for foreigners looking for anything more than a gypsy band and a bowl of gulyás. But despite the décor inherited from the typically overpriced Italian restaurant that used to live here before owner Tamás Laczi took over in August 2009, Apropó in Buda’s District I is making every effort to buck this sorry trend.
And gulyás is not on the Apropó menu, which you can look over here. It is not the briefest, but very well put together – which made the decision-making process unusually difficult, especially alongside an exceptional Békési pálinka that boded well for the meal to come. And Apropó did not disappoint.
After much deliberation, we settled on a solid if unspectacular endive salad followed by saddle of rabbit on a bed of gnocchi and truffles from the separate “winter menu” – which totalled Ft 2,970 together. Although Tamás kindly asked whether the strips of meat on either side of the rabbit’s spine were sufficient, the ham was sufficiently smoky and the gnocchi sufficiently rich to leave me satisfied – while still leaving space for the clafoutis (Ft 600) to come. In fact, if it had been any more, or any richer, it would have been too much – and the home-baked bread certainly came in handy.
From the normal menu, we plumped for mozzarella and cured ham ravioli in sage butter (Ft 970), setting the scene for the duck breast in pomegranate sauce with mashed potatoes (Ft 2,000). Both were as good as they sound, and at under Ft 3,000 for the combo, represent excellent value.
To sum up, the food was great, but perhaps not quite as great as the nearby Csalogány 26, but significantly less expensive. And like its local rival, Apropó has a gourmet lunch menu (Ft 1,490).
Best of all, the clientéle reflected the laid back ownership, with head-chef and former Chelsea resident Tamás treating every guest like an old friend (warning: this can slow down service significantly). He not only used the informal Hungarian “te” form at first sight (he speaks excellent English, too), he was refreshingly patient, open and honest when quizzed about business – which is predictably slow. Let’s hope that changes, as his patrons appeared to be genuine locals and foodies rather than the psuedo high society that patronize so many trendy restaurants. Spread the word!
Really sounds like a worthwhile place to check out,
good food, decent prices, friendly chef – not a
combination found everything in this dear city.
Hopefully they’ll still be there in summer – we want to visit Budapest and treat the family to something special.
Do they also have an open air space/terrace (in summer of course) ?
@wolfi: Sadly, they do not. The restaurant is a
small, cozy cellar space with a total capacity of
40 seats.
you made me hungry! will check them out soon.
definately worth checking out..great selection of wines,lets not forget. very reasonable prices and excellent food,, love this place..bring the family, your friends, your date..not to be missed..
What does psuedo high society mean and what is wrong with them, i.e. i get the impression that they don’t care about the food they eat, wonder where this piece of info is coming from?
I am referring to the section of Hungarian society
that frequents a place to be seen, and to be seen
spending more money than they might actually have.
See some of the comments under my previous review
of Déryne to get the drift:
http://www.chew.hu/deryne_successfully_crosses_to.h
tml
Professor Penfield reported that, its purest representative is found in the Hungarian people of Central Europe and he added in his final report that this very same gene can be found also on five scattered points of the globe. The consequence of this finding – which ruined the hoped-for expectations of the pro-Semitic Rockefeller Foundation – was the immediate cancellation of the funding, and, banning the publication of the report. The research team, of course, was disbanded. The report did not see the light of day.
Bravo to Tamás!
My wife and I visited recently and both had tremendous meals. We
have already started recommending this restaurant to people we
have met here in Budapest. Tamás gave us a memorable evening.
He is a wonderful guy and we wish him great success.
I have already some time enjoyed eating here, mostly i have been very satisfied. Worth trying.
I still find the original article pretty presumptuous though, i am not entirely sure based on what people seem to be able to label other people or their tastes – especially as i am afraid that i and my friends would easily fall into this “pseudo high class”, consequently it looks like i don’t have taste for good food, hmm… Well, maybe i don’t, would be interested to find out exactly how you can qualify for the class of real “foodies” – should i start wearing my pulloever inside out?
Oversized plate of undersized food – I often say considering this disappointing phenomenon in Hungarian: hangyafasznyi degusztációs adag.
“But despite the décor inherited from the typically overpriced Italian restaurant that used to live here before … “, etc
….is this a professional review or … just a business agreement? Bon “Courage”!!!
Would like recommend this marvelous little place to anyone who wants to enjoy in carefully prepared dishes, surprisingly good combinations of flavours and professional (but kind) service. Reasonable prices, best food quality, perfect portion sizes and great wine. All prises to the chef!
@Sabine: No, you have to go elsewhere for PR fluff.
We did feel instantly welcome at Apropó, though,
and the food was pretty tasty, especially at the
price.
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