A Toast to Everyone Putting "Tokaj... Off the Beaten Track" on Track
Back in October we attended a refreshingly excellent culinary event in the dining room of the A38 Boat launching an interesting promotional campaign aimed at educating local and visiting gourmands and restaurateurs about the glories of Tokaj wines. Called "Tokaj…Off the Beaten Track," the promotion is the brainchild of Izabella Zwack of Dobogó fame, and the fine folks at the Bortársaság (Wine Society), a leading distributor and retailer of Hungary's most famous bor. (You can read more about the campaign here, in English, on the Bortársaság's website.) As part of the campaign, which runs until the end of the year, several dozen Budapest restaurants - including numerous members of the "Chew Top 33" - agreed to make some sought-after offerings by the participating winemakers available by the glass, or by offering special menus highlighting the region's wines.
Being big fans of both sweet and dry Tokaji - one of the objectives of the campaign is to highlight the drys - and having been positively bowled over by some of the edibles we tasted at the event (including the curry and shrimp "cocktail" pictured up top, and the blood sausage canapé below) we quickly put in calls to some of the restaurants listed as participating in the "Tokaj…Off the Beaten Track" program, to see what they planned on offering as part of the program. Unfortunately, only a few of the people we reached had even heard of the whole thing, and most of those that had heard of it refused to be pinned down on when or if they'd be rolling out special "off the beaten track" menus.
But since we love the whole idea of this promotion, we decided to persevere, and have continued to call and hassle restaurants listed as participating in the hopes of encouraging as many as possible to join in with special menus. So without further ado, below is a list of the restaurants that are supposed to take part in the campaign, annotated to indicate whether they are currently (or will shortly) be offering an "Off the Beaten Track" wine card, a special Tokaj-themed menu, or both. Restaurants with entries marked "Yes*" had not yet begun their offering at the time we contacted them, but promised they would shortly begin joining the fun, while the restaurants we called who said they didn't know about the campaign are marked "--". (Ones we couldn't reach are marked "N/A".)
Following the list is an even more exciting selection of actual menus from those places with enough team spirit to not only offer a special menu, but to actually send it over to us. We'll keep updating the table and the list of menus as we get new info, and note that before rushing off to eat you'll want to call ahead to make sure that the menu in question is still being served. But by all means, go eat, and if you don't, at least enjoy a glass of something sweet.
| Restaurant | Wine Card? | Special Menu? |
| 1894 Borvendéglő | -- | -- |
| A38 Ship | Yes | Yes |
| Abszint Café and Restaurant | Yes | Yes |
| Alabárdos | Yes | Yes |
| Apetito | Yes | Yes |
| Arany Kaviár Restaurant | Yes | Yes* |
| Arcade Bistro | Yes | Yes* |
| Baraka Restaurant & Lounge | Yes | Yes |
| Biarritz Restaurant & Café | Yes | Yes |
| Café Bouchon | Yes | Yes |
| Búsuló Juhász Étterem | Yes | Yes |
| Dió Restaurant and Bar | Yes | Yes |
| Fausto's Étterem | No | No |
| Goa Café and Restaurant | Yes | Yes |
| Gundel Étterem | --- | --- |
| Hemingway | Yes | No |
| Hilton Budapest | --- | --- |
| Hotel InterContinental Budapest | No | No |
| Kárpátia Étterem | Yes | Yes |
| Kempinski Hotel | Yes | Yes |
| Kiskakukk Étterem | No | No |
| Lou-Lou Restaurant | Yes | No |
| Marriott Hotel | N/A | N/A |
| Ristorante Matteo | Yes | Yes |
| Menza | Yes | Yes |
| MO Restaurant & Bar | Yes | Yes |
| Mokka Café-Restaurant | Yes | Yes |
| Náncsi Néni | Yes* | Yes* |
| Óceán Bár and Grill | Yes | No |
| Páva Étterem | Yes | No |
| Café Pierrot | Yes | Yes |
| Trattoria Pomo D'Oro | --- | --- |
| Rézkakas Étterem | Yes | No |
| Rivalda | --- | --- |
| Rosenstein | N/A | N/A |
| Tabáni Terasz | Yes | No |
| Tom George | Yes | No |
Lazactatár mézes kaporkocsonyával
Salmon tartar with honey flavoured dill-jelly
(Degenfeld Édes Szamorodni 2004)
Vargánya fűszeres olíván forgatott tagliatellével
Porcini on spicy olive with tagliatelle
(Oremus Mandolás 2005)
Báránygerinc trópusi gyümölcsökkel, burgonyapürével
Lamb spine with tropical fruits and mashed potatoes
(Szepsy Furmint 2006)
Libamáj sütőtökkorongon birsalmabefőttel
Gooseliver on pumpkindiscs with quince-marmalade
(Disznókő 4 Puttonyos Aszú 2001)
Gyümölcsnyárs római köményes túrókrémmel
Fruitspit with cumin taste cottage-cheese cream
(Dobogó Mylitta 2005)
(The complete menu, including the wines listed below and an aperitif of 2000 Árvay János Dry Szamorodni, costs Ft 22,000 per person)
Tradicionális Alabárdos libamájterrine
gyümölcskenyérrel és pikáns sárgabaracklekvárral
Traditional Alabárdos goose liver terrine with
fruit cake and piquant apricot jam
(Disznókő Tokaji Sweet Szamorodni 2002)
Zöldséges vadragu leves dámszarvasból,
vörös lencsével és tejföllel
Ragout soup prepared from fallow deer
and vegetables, served with red lentil and sour cream
(Tokaji Furmint 2003 Árvay János)
Kelkáposztában gőzölt fogas pirított vargányával
és paprikás halmártással
Medallion of pike-perch steamed in Savoy cabbage,
served with fried bolete mushroom and paprika-seasoned fish sauce
(Tokaji Hárslevelű 2002 Árvay János)
Házinyúl gerince és dagadója zelleres szalvétagombóccal,
rozmaringgal sült szabolcsi almával és pikáns fehérbormártással
Saddle and thin flank of rabbit garnished with
celery-flavoured bread dumplings, apple fried
with rosemary and piquant white wine sauce
(Tokaji Furmint Úrágya 2006 Királyudvar)
Vaníliás-túrós palacsinta szegfűszeges sütőtök kompóttal
Crepes filled with vanilla-cottage cheese
served with clove seasoned stewed pumpkin
(Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1993 Disznókő)
Petit fours
(The menu including wines costs Ft 15,000)
Welcome Drink
Apetito Gourmet bites
(Degenfeld Sweet Szamorodni 2004)
Foie gras terrine with white chocolate, peach compote
and with basil scented Bourbon vanilla sauce
and spinned milk-loaf
(Oremus Cuvée 2004 Late Harvest)
Chestnut stuffed "Szabógallér" with spicy duck casserole
(Dobogó Dry Furmint 2005)
Mangalica pork tenderloin in hazelnut bark
with pumpkin doughnut and Tokaj sauce
(Szepsy Cuvée 2003)
Chocolate mousse for Ladies
(from Noir Ecuador chocolate)
Chocolate soufflé for Gentlemen
(from Noir Papa New Guinea chocolate)
(Disznókő 5 Puttonyos Aszú 1993)
(No wines were listed for this menu.)
Roston sült articsóka pármai sonkával, pecorinoval
Grilled artichokes with Parma ham, pecorino
Kecske sajtkrém brióson tálalva, fügés balzsam zselével
Goat cheese cream served on brioche with fig balsam jelly
Vaníliás vajban sült libamáj birsalmával
Goose liver fried in vanilla-flavored oil with quince
Kacsamell falat kéksajttal, szarvasgombás mézzel
Duck breast bite with blue cheese and honey with truffles
Mákos rétes narancslekvárral
Poppyseed rétes with orange jam
(Bouchon is offering two menus)
Bresaola carpaccio in red pepper corn made grape sauce
Bresaola carpaccio rózsa borsos szőlő mártással
(Szepsy Furmint 2006)
Füstölt kacsamell naranccsal, pirított fenyőmaggal
Smoked duck breast slices with orange and sautéed pine nuts
(Degenfeld Sweet Szamorodni)
Libamáj pástétom hagyma lekvárral
Goose liver paté with onion jam
(Oremus Cuveé 2004)
Kecskesajt puding pácolt aszalt sárgabarackkal
Goat cheese pudding made with dryered, marinated apricot
(Oremus 5 Puttonyos 2000)
Gorgonzola sajt mézben pirított dióval
Gorgonzola cheese with honey souteé walnuts
(Dobogó 6 Puttonyos 2000)
(Price of menu is Ft 6,590)
Polip carpaccio citromos sült fokhagyma krémmel
Octopus carpaccio with lemon made baked garlic paste
(Oremus Mandolás Furmint 2005)
Dán, mézben sült füstölt sonka karamellizált
burgonyával ananászos párolt káposztával
Danish, baked smoked ham made with honey
with caramelized potatoes and pine apple steamed cabbage
(Szepsy Úrágya Furmint 2006)
Tokaji körte sorbet narancsos sárgabarack öntettel
Tokaji pear sorbet with orange made apricot dressing
(Dobogó Mylitta Late Harvest 2005)
(Price of menu is Ft 7,980)
(Menu begins with an aperitif of Dobogó Mylitta 2004 Late Harvest)
Szarvascarpaccio vargányapürével és
füstölt fügés borzselével
Deer carpaccio with birch mushroom puree
and smoked fig wine jelly
(Oremus Tokaj Mandolás 2005)
Roston sült libamáj narancsos tésztán,
marcipános körtemártással
Grilled goose liver paté on orangey pasta,
marzipan-flavored pear sauce
(Szepsy Cuvée 2003)
Báránygerinc diós szélesmetélttel
és zölddiós mazsolapürével
Lamb saddle with walnut-flavored wide pasta
and green walnut-flavored raisin puree
(Gróf Degenfeld 3 Puttonyos Aszú 2002)
Tojáskocsonya ostyalapokon, birsalma-mártással
Egg jelly on wafers with quince sauce
(Disznókő 6 Puttonyos Aszú 1993)
Kacsamellel rétegezett libamájpástétom
mustármagos vadgomba-salátával
Goose liver paté layered with duck breast,
wild mushroom salad with mustrad seeds
(Oremus Mandolás Furmint 2005)
Gyömbéres édesburgonya-krémleves
pirított tökmaggal
Ginger-flavored sweet potato cream soup
with toasted pumpkin seeds
(Oremus Cuvée Late Harvest 2004)
Roston sült kecsegefilé lazackaviáros sabayon-nal
és parajos-burgonyás rétessel
Grilled sturgeon filet with salmon caviar sabayon
and spinach-potato rétes
(Szepsy Úrágya Furmint 2006)
Diós brownie aszalt sárgabarack-krémmel
Walnut brownie with dried apricot cream
(Dobogó 6 Puttonyos Aszú 2000)
Ristorante Matteo
Marinírozott Szent Jakab kagyló kivivel
és bodzás ezüsthársmártással
Marinated St. Jacques mussel with kiwi
and elderberry and linden flower sauce
(Disznókő Hárslevelű 2006)
Roston sült libamáj mandulás karamellben,
vajban pirított kaláccsal
Grilled foie gras in almond caramel,
served with milk loaf fried in butter
(Dobogó Mylitta Késői Szüret 2005)
Csípős tigrisrák chilis tagliatellével
Hot tiger shrimp with chilli tagliatelle
(Gróf Degenfeld Sweet Szamorodni 2004)
Borjú érem csontvelős szegfűgombakrémmel,
parmezános rizottóval vajmártásban
Veal medallion with bone-marrow and fairy ring
mushroom paste, served with parmesan risotto in butter sauce
(Szepsy Úrágya Furmint 2006)
Sült túrótorta barack lekváros túróhabbal
Túró cake with apricot jam and túró mousse
(Oremus 5 Puttonyos Aszú 2000)
Vékonyra szelt szürkemarha bélszín
szarvasgomba olajjal, házi kenyéren
Finely-cut "grey cattle" steak with truffle oil
and home-made bread
(Tokaji Mylitta Dobogó 2004)
Libamáj roston sütve, erdei gombákkal, fügével
Grilled goose liver with forest mushrooms and fig
(Tokaji Cuvée Szepsy István 2005)
Kacsamell sütőtök rizottóval,
Tokaji Dobogó Ishtar borecettel
Duck breast with pumpkin risotto,
Tokaji Dobogó Ishtar wine vinegar
(Tokaji Mandolás Oremus 2005)
Kandírozott fűszeres gesztenye
Candied, spiced chestnut
(Tokaji 6 Puttonyos Aszú Dobogó 2000)
Libamáj Créme Brulée mézes
passiógyümölccsel, kevert salátával, édes toasttal
Goose liver Créme Brulée with honey-flavored
passion fruit, mixed salad and sweet toast
(Oremus Tokaj 5 Puttonyos Aszú 2000)
Red snapper mandulás kéregben, pores
édeskömény lekvárral, édesburgonya chipsszel
Red snapper in almond crust with leek fennel jam
and sweet potato chips
(Dobogó Furmint 2005)
Kacsamell filé calvadosos almapürével,
baconnal sült cikóriával, házi aszalt
szilvás habos palacsintával
Duck breast filet with calvados apple puree,
chicory roasted with bacon, home-made palacsinta
with dried plum and whipped cream
(Szepsy Úrágya Furmint 2006)
Ropogósra sült szopós malac, szegfűszeges
Tokaji boros kalácsmártással, szarvasgombás sült
káposztával, szalmaburgonya - koronggal
Crispy suckling pig, kalács sauce flavored with clove
and Tokaj wine, roased cabbage with truffles and hash browns
(Gróf Degenfeld Sweet Szamorodni 2004)
Marcipános - fehércsokoládés tortillarétes
tamarinddal, illatos szilvával töltve
Marzipan and white chocolate-flavored
tortillarétes with tamarind, filled with aromatic plum
(Disznókő 6 Puttonyos Aszú 1993)
(Price of menu including wines is Ft 12,230)
Grillezett rózsaszín rákfarok, naranccsal
és illatos vaníliamártással
Grilled pink shrimp with orange and vanilla sauce
(Oremus 5 Puttonyos Aszú 2000)
Malackocsonya falatok, balzsamecetes
lilahagyma salátával és pikáns tormahabbal
Nibbles of pig in aspic served with a purple onion
salad perfumed with balsamic vinegar
and a piquant horseradish mousse
(Oremus Mandolás 2005)
Sütőtök krémleves pirított tökmaggal
Pumpkin cream soup with toasted pumpkin seeds
(Dobogó Mylitta Late Harvest 2005)
Ropogós kacsacomb, hagymás tört krumplival
és aszalt sárgabarackos, párolt fehér káposztával
Crispy leg of duck, served with sautéed potatoes
mashed up with onion and with dried apricot
flavored steamed white cabbage
(Gróf Degenfeld Sweet Szamorodni 2004)
Rozmaringgal illatosított, egészben sült sertésszűz,
pirított erdei gombákkal, burgonyafánkkal
és szezonális zöldségpürével
Rosemary seasoned whole roasted fillet of pork,
with sautéed forest mushrooms, home-made potato balls
and seasonal vegetable purée
(Szepsy Úrágya Furmint 2006)
Lágy csokoládé soufflé, kandírozott gyömbérrel
és illatos citrusfélékkel
Soft chocolate soufflée with candied ginger
and fragrant citrus fruits
(Disznókő 6 Puttonyos Aszú 1993)
Libamájas gesztenyekrémleves
kecskesajtos pirítóssal
Chestnut and Goose Liver Cream Soup with
Goat Cheese Toast
(Disznókő Hárslevelű 2006)
Scampisaláta lime-os, friss fűszeres dressinggel
és parmezános, ropogós sült tésztával
Scampi and vegetable salad with a lime-herb dressing
and crispy-parmesan pasta chips
(Dobogó Mylitta Late Harvest 2005)
Füstölt marhanyelv, paradicsom chutney-val,
almás burgonyatortán tálalva
Smoked beef tongue with tomato chutney
served on apple-potato tart
(Szepsy Furmint 2006)
Roston sült libamáj és scampi, őszibarackos risotto
"sushival" és házi készítésű őszibarackdzsemmel
Seared goose liver and shrimp paired with
peach risotto "sushi" and home-made peach jam
(Oremus Cuvée Late Harvest 2004)
Brownie sült fügével, mézes-fügés balsamico szósszal
Brownie with baked fig and honey-fig balsamico sauce
(Oremus 5 Puttonyos Aszú 2000)
Sütőtök-sajttorta
Pumpkin cheese cake
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