So as you have no doubt heard, it's been a painful couple of weeks for our friends just over the border in Serbia, as well as lots of szerbek living here in Hungary. Yes, we know, the whole Kosovo/Kosova saga doesn't have much to do with food, or Hungary, and saying anything about it is probably asking for a lot of hate mail. But one thing we do know is that we adore the Serbs - at least when they are cooking - and now just seems like a good time to encourage everyone to show a little love for our neighbors by dropping in at one of the growing number of local restaurants offering Serbian specialties, and ordering a few bites. Or in this case, more than just a few bites.

The "double double" extravaganza you see above was ordered and (fully) eaten over the course of a lunch and a dinner over at KaФana, a.k.a. Kafana/Kaffana. The tapasz ("Tapas Plate," Ft 1,400/€5.40 person) is probably not what you'd get on a normal menu down in Serbia, but does a fine job of preparing your (and a companion) for the epic kétszemélyes hústál ("Meat Plate for Two," Ft 4,500), which includes the obligatory csevap and pljeszkavica, along with several kinds of more Hungo-seeming hús, as well as potatoes and heaps of the tasty pepper spread even many Hungarians know as ajvar.

In addition to these monsters, you can also get single-size sit-down servings of the most popular "Balkan street meats," most of which seem to cost just over Ft 2,000 for a plate, as well as more mainstream international fare like spinach or tomato gnocchi (Ft 1,450). We're not going to say that this is the best former Yugo-food in town, as we haven't been down to Serbia enough to even really know how it's really made. But it's certainly good enough for us.

Meanwhile, if you haven't been, the place itself is very cozy, with an upstairs gallery that makes a great place for a party. Assuming, of course, you're not celebrating a certain independence day.